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Here is the basic idea: An L-shaped computer desk mounted to the wall with no legs. (Screens will be mounted on the wall.)

Full Support

This is the Mounting Bracket: The length of the tube will be 22", welded to a section of a 3mm thick mild steel door hinge, that's welded to a 2" 3mm thick section of flat stock. As you can see, there is a Socket Head screw to adjust the angle of the end of the desktop mounting tube.

adjustment view

Above the hinge point of the 2" 3mm thick section of flat stock, there is a slot for mounting the flat stock to the wall.

wall nout slot flat stock mounted

The next two images show the mounting points (circled in red) for an L-shaped desk and a shelf on the 2 walls. Because it was impossible to get the anchors the same height, you can see the need for the slot in the 2" flat stock.

left wall right wall

The next 2 images show the measurements of the materials.

Tubeflat stock I know the tub can support the 3/4" shelf. What I'm not sure of is its ability to support a 3/4" or 1" desktop that's 2' wide, with no legs.

enter image description here

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    It seems like you’re close enough to just try it and see. My gut feel is that you’ll be putting brackets at the ends of the L, but I dunno… Mar 20, 2023 at 17:45
  • I don't lean on the desk much. It's primarily just for the keyboard, coffee, cell, etc. Mar 20, 2023 at 18:03
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    You don't lean on it much, until you do. Or someone trips and grabs it for support, or a buddy sees the steel legs and plops down on it, or... Over design!
    – FreeMan
    Mar 20, 2023 at 18:12
  • It'd be more helpful if you sketched out where the desk will go, and where the leg (singular?) will go.
    – Huesmann
    Mar 21, 2023 at 12:52
  • I added another Image. I think this makes it clear, now? Mar 21, 2023 at 14:49

1 Answer 1

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You don't need legs necessarily but you need to think of what the legs do. They support the cantilevered forces on the outer edges (away from the wall)

Imagine this force as a lever using your wall mounts as a fulcrum. It won't take much leveraged force to pull the screws out.

I recommend that you use angle brackets (the kind that look like triangles) to support the desk. This will still keep legs off the floor at the expense of adding a few spots to bump your knees.

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  • Note that this is essentially what commercial desks with legs set toward the back do, though they often bring the bars supporting the desk forward quite a distance (and, if course, have feet also extending forward since they generally aren't wall-mounted). Also, you probably want the top connections to the wall to be something thicker than typical screws; it might even be worth going up into lag-bolt range (properly centered in stud, with proper predrilling, so you don't split the stud).
    – keshlam
    Mar 21, 2023 at 15:08
  • Bolts are 3/4" and the nuts are 2" ROD Couplings with a cross-section of 1/4" rebar welded to a short 3/4" bolt in the other end that is cemented into the brick wall. (They aren't pulling out or loose). If you’ll look at the last image I uploaded, you’ll see that all of the outlets are way up the wall. This is by design. We have a problem with field-mice that can’t be resolved (even with 2 cat’s that are both Mousers and Raptors). The idea is to do everything I can to keep the mice off the desk. Mar 21, 2023 at 16:29

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