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Check out the evolution of my saga with my water pressure and my water heater here: Water Pressure Regulator not regulating after rebuild

And here: High water pressure when gauge is not observed

Never had any issue with Temperature Pressure Release (TPR) valve. In fact, I never even knew it existed till I was working on the 2nd issue above, and I decided to test it out.

Here are a cpl pictures of it: enter image description here enter image description here

The first time engaging it, the lever was stuck, and I had to force it to open. Once it finally did open, released water out of the water heater like I expected, but after I shut it back off, water kept dripping out of the spout.

enter image description here

Apparently if they havent been operated in a long time, they can get filled up with sediment, and fail to close shut after you release them.

After I watched this YouTube Why is my Water Heater Release Valve Leaking and How to Fix, I thought it would be an easy replacement of the bad TPR, but then I realized the pipes were soldered in, and I didn't know to release them:enter image description here

So... after a couple trips to Home Depot, I arrived to the solution below in my Answer.

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  • I see you've got a wire (grounding?) bonded to the cold water line by the wall. In my city at least, they want to see a bare copper (6 gauge?) wire bonding the gas line (not directly on CSST), hot, and cold water pipes together, all at the gas-fired water heater. I think that might be Code specified.
    – Armand
    Mar 7 at 6:45
  • Sounds like you got the problem fixed. Note that some recommend that you open the TPR valve once or twice a year and let a bit if water out to help keep it clean.
    – SteveSh
    Mar 7 at 12:43
  • @Armand I noticed that wire too, but I didn't know what it was so I decided not to mess w/it. This placecwas built 1994, so maybe that was standard then? If I'm not planning to have a code enforcer come out, do you think it's fine to just leave it?
    – SDSHuge2.0
    Mar 7 at 12:52
  • @SteveSh lol, I learned the same thing watching the YouTube videos explaining how to replace the TPR after I never touched it for 5 years, and who knows how long the previous owner never touched it. I've got a yearly reminder on my calendar now along w/checking my Water Pressure Regulator
    – SDSHuge2.0
    Mar 7 at 12:57
  • To clarify, that's right, do not touch the existing wire. I would add a new 6 ga bare copper wire bonding the metal cold and hot water pipes (near the wall) and the gas line on a straight non-corrugated stretch (maybe near wall). You can find plenty of youtube videos, and the clamps are available everywhere. It's an easy quick DIY project that adds some safety. Nice photos on your post btw.
    – Armand
    Mar 7 at 19:07

1 Answer 1

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After a couple trips to Home Depot I learned that I'd have to cut a section of the pipe out, and re-attach it with a SharkBite coupling enter image description here enter image description here

The guys at Home Depot told me another alternative was to un-solder, then re-solder the connections, but since Im not an experienced solderer, there could be complications, and since this was not a pressure bearing pipe, the SharkBite would be adequate for a simpler solution.

Once I cut the pipe, and could remove the TPR, I saw what had caused the failure: enter image description here

I assume that seal deteriorated over time, and when I engaged the valve the seal failed and got stuck in the spring.

I watched this YouTube to learn about SharkBite couplings and how to install them How to Install Sharkbite Push-to-Connect Fittings

I had to cut abt 3/4" out of the pipe to allow for the SharkBite to fit in: enter image description here

When installing a SharkBite, make sure to de-burr the inside and outside of both pipes so as not to damage the SharkBite: NOTE: They say when de-burring you're not supposed to scuff/sand the outside of the pipe, because SharkBite needs a smooth surface to seal against. This why I was careful to only scuff about 1/4" of each side of the pipe. You can see this in the pic above. The SharkBite seal sits much farther down than this on smooth part of the pipe: enter image description here here

And good as new! enter image description here

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