How to finish a door without frame or trim?

I removed all the trim, frame, jamb, etc. from my walk-in closet’s door. The plan is to replace it with a sliding barn style because it was painful how tight the older door was. Now I have the naked metal studs and drywall but I can't find 4 inch x 8 foot lumber at Home Depot.

How do I finish the wall to be simple without trimming?

I was thinking of using corner beads but then what do I use to cover the studs? Nothing? Just mud?

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  • 1
    Usually if you need actual size lumber, you will need to buy larger and cut it to size. Have you looked for door frames instead of wood to make them?
    – crip659
    Feb 20, 2023 at 12:42

3 Answers 3


I would cut drywall to size, screw it on and finish with drywall mud.

You could use rounded corners profiles on the drywall edges to make it look better.


If you want to trim it out with wood

You need to know how and where to go lumber shopping.


When you go looking for lumber, you purchase by "nominal" size, but you get "actual" size. For example a "2x4" is the "nominal" size, but the "actual" size is 1.5" x 3.5".

To get a board that is actually 4" wide, you'll need to purchase something that has a wider "nominal" size. At a big box store, the next step up is going to be a x6" board, so that's what you'll need to buy, then you'll rip it to the actual width you want. You're going to need a table saw to do this accurately, though you could do it with a circular saw and some jigs to make a straight cut.

Since you're asking this question, odds are good you don't own a table saw, and your jig making skills may not be well developed yet, so that leads to the picking a better where.


Look in the yellow pages (that's an old-fashioned term for "do an internet search") for a reasonably local lumber yard that isn't a big-box, national chain store.[1]

At a lumber yard, they'll sell all sorts of lumber of various hard wood species, including exotics that you've probably never even heard of. They will have lumber in all sorts of different sizes, including many (like 4/4, 6/4 or 8/4) that you've never heard of.

Go to the counter and nicely tell them what you're trying to do and a general idea of what you're after. You're almost guaranteed to find very nice people who are more than happy to help you out. They'll lead you to the stacks of lumber of the appropriate species (pine is fine if you're going to completely cover the wood with something else, poplar is great for painting, many other woods have great colors for a clear or stained finish) and size. They'll help you select appropriate boards, then they'll take them to the back where they'll mill exactly what you need.

You will pay a bit extra to have them do the milling for you, but again, you're going to get exactly what you need in the thickness and the width you want. They'll probably even cut it to length for you if you'd like. About the only thing you'd need to do when you get it home would be some finish sanding to get to the surface condition you want.

[1]If you can't find something, look for a woodworking supply store like a Rockler or Woodcrafters (no affiliation, they happen to be two of the biggest national chains, any local wood working supply store will do just fine, too) and give one of them a call. Tell them you're looking for a lumber supplier near <your location> that will do finishing work and ask them for suggestions. Note that these two stores will also sell lumber in a wide variety of species, but that they tend to stock standard sizes and I doubt they'll do custom milling for you. You could also ask about some local wood workers who might be willing to mill your stock down to the appropriate size for a reasonable fee if you bring in the lumber, or they might even purchase and mill it for you, again for a charge.

  • 2
    When getting custom widths, note that your wall thickness might vary, so base your size on the widest dimension. (A little bit of overage might also help with the drywall repair.) Feb 20, 2023 at 16:05
  • Might be worth mentioning that the nominal/actual dimensions thing isn't just a scam - a 2x4 (nominally) starts its life as a rough plank with actual outer dimensions of 2x4. When it's smoothed, that process takes a quarter-inch off each side, for a total of 0.5 under nominal in both dimensions. And as annoying as it is having a 2x4 not be exactly 2x4, it would be much more annoying if it were a variable size due to different processes.
    – fectin
    Feb 20, 2023 at 22:17
  • @fectin A dressed 2x4 is different sizes depending on it's age. Any old house with remodeling over time will show this. It is, in fact, a scam - they don't start at 2x4 these days. Several successive rounds of making the standard size produced hit exactly and only the -tolerance, acceptance of that -toleranced size as "standard", and application of a new +/- tolerance of which the - is the only size you'll ever see got to where we are now. 1-3/4 x 3-3/4 was the dressed standard at one point, and honest cut to size undressed 2x4 (entirely straight enough to use) were also common.
    – Ecnerwal
    Feb 20, 2023 at 23:05
  • 1
    @Ecnerwal Just because a term of art doesn't mean what you want it to mean (or what it might even intuitively suggest), doesn't make it a scam. It might be confusing to someone new to the field, but again, that doesn't make it a scam. Would you consider it a bargain if I sold you a bundle of 2x4s that were 1.75" thick? After all, you're getting more wood. This might be fine until you try to hang sheetrock. That undressed "full" 2x4 that you miss had an unspecified moisture content, so it's actual size was a moving target. Is it a scam that a 5TB disk has only 4.5 "real" terabytes of storage?
    – Llaves
    Feb 20, 2023 at 23:42

Cover the top and sides with strips of drywall and use corner beads on all the edges, then finish it with drywall mud.

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