Can I place a door with flanking casement windows beneath the same header? The opening is 89.5”. 3’ door needs to be centered, 18” casement windows. How would you frame it?

My concern is whether these double jack studs left and right of the door are enough for the strength of people slamming (inevitable) the door closed? Just some framing nails, or a few 3” screws at the blue circles?

Thanks in advance.

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  • 2
    A picture and/or drawing with some dimensions is always helpful. As I understand you, though, you have a 36" door plus 2 18" window panels for a total of 72" that you want to put into an 89" wide opening. So long as the header is properly sized for the opening, simply add a couple of 2x4 to make your opening narrower & located wherever in the opening you want the new door to be. Add extra studs as necessary to support wall finish 16" OC and call it good. Is there more to it than that?
    – FreeMan
    Commented Feb 3, 2023 at 12:03
  • 1
    What @FreeMan said, but if your parts are coming individually, think about putting double 2x posts beside the door. That’ll allow longer screws to fasten hinges and security strikes. Commented Feb 3, 2023 at 14:49
  • Before (or even after) your question is closed, please edit it to get us the details needed to help you and to clarify exactly what your question is. We'd love to help, but we need more from you...
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    Commented Feb 3, 2023 at 14:52
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2 Answers 2


Yes, you can span multiple rough openings with a single header. This is often done deliberately to add lateral stability, especially in overheight walls where flex is a concern. A similar technique is sometimes used for garage headers, where they'll span the entire front wall between outside corners to stabilize the opening.

Be sure that one of the following are true:

  • The header is sized for the total span.
  • The header is supported by intermediate trimmer studs which themselves have proper bearing underneath, whereby in each individual span the header is of adequate size.

I would frame it as needed for proper unit support, spacing, and trim backing. I would want twin trimmers along each opening, if space allows, for stiffness and trim backing.

To address the specific concern, twin jacks are adequate for even solid doors. Toenail them well at the header and face nail them into any blocking that falls between the pairs. Once sheathing and drywall and trim and everything else are in place it'll be plenty solid.


I have exactly this as the front entrance to my house. It is original construction and 132 years old. The door is oak and weighs about 100 pounds. By my rough estimate it has been slammed shut 192,850 times. It still seals and latches perfectly and does not shake, vibrate, or wobble.

I am convinced that if an earthquake ever destroyed my home, the last thing standing would be the chimney and this $&#*!^% doorway.

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