Undo downstream GFCI protection for 6 standard receptacles to make individual GFCI outlets

Question

I have 6 standard receptacles throughout my house that all wire into a single GFCI directly below my breaker box. This is inconvenient, because if I trip one of them somewhere, the other 5 don't work and I need to reset down at the electrical panel at the single GFCI. I would like to "un-do" this setup and convert the 6 individual standard receptacles to GFCI each. Below is a crude diagram of my setup. For clarity, there is a circuit on the panel for the GFCI box below the panel itself.

I would like confirmation that this is how to achieve this:

• Remove all 6 of the wires coming out of the LOAD from the GFCI in the basement and pigtail them over to the LINE so that all have constant power in addition to the GFCI in the basement itself.
• For each of the 6 standard receptacles, replace it with a GFCI receptacle

Potential additional concerns: doing what I want to do might be weird because that means there are 6 different receptacles around the house all on the same circuit (like they were before through the GFCI) as opposed to by location, e.g. "half bath" circuit, etc. Longer term I assume it would be better to have an electrician move each wire to another relevant circuit, e.g. half bath, exterior, full bath 1, etc. Let me know if you agree or if this really isn't an issue.

Answer 1

The plan sounds fine. However, I would keep the outside receptacles on the existing GFCI (still on LOAD). GFCI have relatively complex electronics that will likely not last that long subject to extreme temperatures and weather.

You may also find that there are not 6 separate runs from the existing GFCI box. In particular, the bathrooms may all be on one cable - i.e., cable from basement to 1/2 bath to full bath to full bath. Combining all bathroom receptacles on one circuit is allowed. However, current code (it has not always been this way, and your wiring may be grandfathered) is that bathroom receptacles should be on a circuit dedicated to bathrooms - either all receptacles for multiple bathrooms on one circuit or all stuff for one bathroom (receptacles + lights + fan) on one circuit. Similarly, kitchen receptacles should be on a circuit only serving the kitchen and related ares. If you have room in the panel then I recommend:

• Move the bathroom receptacles to a separate circuit, with GFCI at each receptacle.
• Move the kitchen receptacles to a separate circuit, with GFCI at each receptacle.
• Keep the outdoor receptacles (front and back) on the existing circuit and continue using LOAD off of the existing GFCI in order to avoid the need to put GFCI devices outside.

Answer 2

Remove all 6 of the wires coming out of the LOAD from the GFCI in the basement and pigtail them over to the LINE so that all have constant power in addition to the GFCI in the basement itself.

Overall, your plan sounds fine because you're not going load -> line (series) between the GFCIs.

I'm a little surprised that the fill limit of your GFCI box hasn't been exceeded though. I would personally convert it to a regular 4"x4" junction box and install the basement GFCI next to it.

I would consider running the outdoor outlets off of the basement GFCI because you really don't want to expose the sensitive electronics to the elements and temperature swings even if it is labeled "WR" for Weather-Rated. I have 6 outdoor outlets running off the load side of a basement GFCI and have never had an issue.

Longer term I assume it would be better to have an electrician move each wire to another relevant circuit, e.g. half bath, exterior, full bath 1, etc. Let me know if you agree or if this really isn't an issue.

Yes, bathrooms and kitchens should be on their own circuits by modern code; sometimes 2 or more circuits for a kitchen is preferable. This is so that you're not tripping a circuit if you wish to blow-dry your hair while microwaving something.

If you haven't been tripping the circuit up till now then I wouldn't call this an immediate issue but certainly get it on your radar.

Answer 3

Read the instructions and life is easier

Then, you would see the procedure for attaching 2 wires to the LINE terminals.

No pigtails needed.

But obviously, this is happening often enough to be annoying. I gather it's with the same appliance over and over.

The right way is to repair or replace the faulty appliance.

I know for many it is an alien concept that an appliance which is working can have a ground fault, at least that is evident from the countless people who come here saying they have replaced the GFCI receptacles twice and they refuse to stop tripping.

Yes, appliances have ground faults. However, if they have a 2-prong cord and you're not connected with water or anything grounded in any way, there's another possibility.

Note that GFCIs can also trip from in-wall wiring faults. Your plan will defeat this fault detection. Since I gather the first receptacle at the panel has no purpose except to be cheaper than a GFCI breaker, You might consider replacing it with an AFCI deadfront so you will at least have AFCI protection on the wires.

Answer 4

Here is my suggestion: If the cables are long enough, re-route into the breaker box and, the big AND you have breaker space available, connect them to additional breakers. Code requires bathrooms to have dedicated circuits (the connection can be shared by multiple bathrooms), but they have to be 20 amp circuits.

The code minimum for a kitchen is 2 20amp circuits for small appliances like a coffee maker, toaster, instant pot, etc. But if it were my house, I'd put in at least 3 20 amp circuits for the kitchen.....oh and yes a dedicated circuit for a dishwasher and if you have or want to have an instant hot water dispenser a circuit for that, Also a dedicated circuit for the microwave. Obviously I'm skipping over requirements for large appliances bc they can vary so much.

I KNOW I KNOW I'm responding to WAY more than you asked, but if you have the opportunity now to "go big", do it!.