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I’m going to install a new doorway and need to find this trim. I’m having trouble finding it at Menards. Does anyone know where else I might be able to find it? It goes on the header of all the doors and windows.

Dimensions of the trim

  • Height from top to bottom is 1-1/8"
  • The 45 degree slant is 1-1/2"
  • The top bevel is an 3/16"
  • The second bevel is 1/2" vertically
  • The 3rd bevel is 1/16"
  • The last bevel is 1/8"

I already have the design that goes below it.

trim in question

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  • The curvy part is an ogee. You might need a custom approach to match it, though there are thousands of variets out there to sort through, hoping to find a match. See: thisoldhouse.com/molding/21017960/crown-molding-forms
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 27, 2023 at 18:43
  • 1
    Go to a lumber store not a general building supply. Take a picture of your trim or, better, a piece of it. They will help you find the closest match. If it's a different door it doesn't have to be an exact match. Nobody will notice. And, unless you plan to meticulously strip and repaint all the existing trim, once painted even an exact match will look different. The lumber specialist near me has hundreds of styles. They don't have names, they all have catalog numbers. You have to search visually.
    – jay613
    Jan 27, 2023 at 18:47
  • Looks like (at least) three different styles combined there. Two for the header and a plain one for the actual door trim.
    – jay613
    Jan 27, 2023 at 18:49
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    Find an architectural salvage outfit. Might be on a stack; maybe have to buy a cabinet, steal its crown, then just leave it there. Or a neighbor's house currently under demolition or remodel. If you're lucky it will come with several undercoats of lead pant, to match. Or steal it off your own e.g., basement door and re-do that one, funnily with w/e. "This size was used mid-century - guessing the house is 1950s although this could have been updated then." – DMoore
    – Mazura
    Jan 28, 2023 at 17:10

3 Answers 3

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Chris O is right that the cap is a standard crown. They all have roughly the same shape, with an S-curve high and a cove low. The assembly is well-supported solely by nails at the bottom along with glued and cross-nailed miters.

What's below it could probably be approximated with Princeton/colonial style door stop molding. Both pieces are readily available at lumber yards and home improvement stores.

enter image description here

source

Here's what it looks like in cross-section. It would be mitered around three sides of the head casing.

                       ___
                      /   |
                   __|   /
              ____|  |  | <-- crown molding
             |    |  |_/
             |    |_/ <-- stop molding
             |    |
             |    | <-- head casing

Here's nearly the same situation (without the intermediate component) in a home I built many years ago. The owner was kind enough to send a photo. The crown we see here is just like the profile that Chris O posted. The inside is as hollow as you'd imagine, but it's quite stable and secure. I've also done this technique with larger crown and additional dentil molding.

enter image description here

Here's nearly the same profile on cabinetry in my current home (which I didn't build). Again, it's only fastened at the bottom, but it would take quite a smack to knock it loose, being largely self-supporting at the top by the glued miter.

enter image description here

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The general term for that type of trim is crown moulding. I assume that that specific profile also has a name, but I do not know what that one is.

Crown Moulding

Searching the store's website for crown moulding should allow you to view all the profiles available and tell you where they can be seen in person.

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  • 1
    The smaller (mostly) stuff might benefit from adding "window" or "door" to Crown Molding, reducing slightly the amount of 6" wide stuff for the top of the wall you get in results.
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 27, 2023 at 18:50
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    "Cabinet crown" also gets you there.
    – isherwood
    Jan 27, 2023 at 19:19
  • @isherwood - "cabinet crown" in most cases is exceptionally ghetto and usually is meant to hide a gap between top of cabinets and ceiling - not how normal crown would be installed. I know this is a vocabulary thing but cabinet crown in big boxes doesn't even look like crown. The other issue here is even to spend the time trying to redo this picture this is like 3-4" crown with a pretty steep angle. I shop for this stuff all the time and good luck finding it. This size was used mid-century - guessing the house is 1950s although this could have been updated then.
    – DMoore
    Jan 27, 2023 at 21:37
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    We're apparently on two different planets. Almost every home I've built has had crown over the cabinets whether they were against the ceiling or not. It looks about as close to what's in that photo as could be hoped, and it's added as an enhancement, not a crutch. Here's my current home's crown, though I didn't build this one. What am I missing?
    – isherwood
    Jan 27, 2023 at 21:59
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I don't want to be a hater but I do a lot of trim work and buy these things quite often.

Crown Molding... No not really. Yes you could customize crown to look something like this. But the problem with crown is it is hard to nail it into something. Top of walls - no issues because you have two forms of support. Even using crown on cabinets - and I do all the time - is sketchy. You can probably tug off crown on cabinets in about 2 mins for a kitchen. Yea I know it is so high it shouldn't be an issue but trim is normally not a weak point.

My point is I would never ever put crown above a door.

Also you could use a "cap" which does not have a good picture in the other answer but the cap would require some transition molding to look good and I quite certainly use this technique as it is cheap/quick and you don't have to get anything customized for odd sizes.

But the word that you are looking for is crosshead (mill talk) or layman is door (window) header. The idea of the crosshead is ornamental and that it will extend past the trim on each side of the door.

It should be measured by depth to provide a logical transition to the trim you are using. Generally the depth should be equal or greater than the trim used. A crosshead normally extends past the width of the door to stand out more. But the key is that it provides finished edges so there isn't a need for customization or transition molding. In nicer houses we use crossheads around entry door and any other significant door.

enter image description here

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