Can you suggest which products should be used for repairing two types of products I have. Both have parts that broke off, so I need to be able to affix the part back, and add a pigment to ensure the color of the crack line blends well.

The first is a cultured marble bathroom vanity countertop. The backsplash was damaged and needs to be readded, hopefully doing a good job hiding the seam:


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The other is Kohler's NeoRoc composite sink. Again, a part have been broken off that I want to repair. I'd likely mix in some black pigment powder I have that is iron oxide based (Real Milk Paint's Pigment Powder); again, to hide any seam that might appear.


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  • 1
    Unless using the back splash as part of a basketball hoop, silicon caulking will probably do. Knowing which part of the sink needs repair might be important. Some sections might be better to get a replacement than trying to repair.
    – crip659
    Jan 20, 2023 at 23:16
  • There's also the question of "was it abused, or should you look into warranty replacement" since part of the high price you pay for the name is the warranty. Which is (your) lifetime on Neoroc sinks.
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 20, 2023 at 23:55
  • The backsplash is more of a clean break across. Same with the kitchen sink.
    – John Manko
    Jan 22, 2023 at 0:37
  • It'd be helpful to show the actual broken pieces.
    – Huesmann
    Jan 23, 2023 at 12:25

1 Answer 1


As a very general rule, avoid speed if seeking the "best epoxy" for most applications. Which generally mens shopping for marine epoxy, not hardware or big-box stores. If you're in some huge hurry, you can apply heat after everything is sorted into place to speed the cure. The average 5-minute or 2-hour stuff is too thick, and the 5 minute stuff smells awful, as well.

Without getting into making specific brand epoxy recommendations, I will suggest that you search among the marine epoxies (available on-line or at any boating supply store) for "no-blush" or "non-blush" (both could be rendered as "-blushing") Epoxies.

Not so much due to that particular feature, but because those formulations appear to have a very much longer shelf-life, and the smallest batch of marine epoxy you can buy is probably going to be a 10 year or more supply unless you are building a boat, or surfboard, or skateboards - likewise, skip buying any "pump dispensers" as they will put out way more than you need for small repair jobs - just measure carefully to get the right proportions.

For broken parts with no missing sections, the clear epoxy glue line should be nearly unnoticeable if things are fit together properly when gluing.

  • Yeah, West System. Big upfront cost but you'll use it for the rest of your life (or until the chemicals dry out in 5-10 years). Jan 21, 2023 at 8:34
  • 105/207 is documented to last longer than that, and still work.
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 21, 2023 at 22:13
  • I've been watching videos, and some are using knife grade epoxy (2-part), such as Tenax Titanium. You recommend marine epoxy over that?
    – John Manko
    Jan 22, 2023 at 0:34
  • "Knife grade" smells like the product that comes out of a male bovine in the care of the marketing department. Titanium filled epoxy has some limited applications (there's some holding steel key stock, which is stronger than it, in my backhoe.) The industrial supplier doesn't mention anything about "knife" but they don't target suckers with youtube shills. If you need more than 11,000 PSI in compression and 6,750 PSI in tension to hold your sink together, you're doing something wrong with or to your sink...
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 22, 2023 at 0:58
  • Filled epoxies also make a big fat glue line, not a near-invisible repair of a broken thing, because they have a bunch of metal particles taking up space - good for their intended use, terrible for putting broken thngs back together without demonstrating that they were broken (for that, kintsugi...)
    – Ecnerwal
    Jan 22, 2023 at 1:01

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