Happy new year. Looking for some advice:

I am in Toronto, Canada, and my condo was built in 2004.

I recently renovated my kitchen and now replacing the gas stove range with a separate cooktop and wall oven. The old gas stove range was plugged into a 3-hole wall receptacle. The second receptacle in the gang was unused.

The breaker to those 2 kitchen outlets is 20Amps as checked in the electrical panel.

Now the new cooktop came with a 3-prong plug attached, which I just plugged into one of the two receptacles (pic attached) and it works fine.

But the new oven came with a 4-wire cord- red, black, white, and green.

I am a bit confused now, do I:

  1. Would I have to run a new cable from panel to stove ? which I believe would require ripping some walls apart and that might not be a possibility with me as the place is just finished renovating.

  2. Replace 4-wire cord coming from oven to 3-wire and then plug into the existing receptacle?

  3. Or check the receptacle outlet if it has 4 wires in it (namely red, white, black and green/bare), run a hardwire junction box from one of the outlets and connect the oven in junction box ?

Oven specifications:

Brand: Fulgor Milano Link

Volts:240 Volts

Amps:15 Amps

Frequency:60 Hz

Minimum Volts:208 Volts

Lower Bake Element Power:1100 Watts

Wattage at 208 Volts:1800 Watts

Wattage at 240 Volts:2350 Watts

Any Suggestions are highly appreciated. Thanks enter image description here

enter image description here

  • Looking at the volts/watts rating of the oven, its maximum power draw is 10A. That's not huge for a plugtop, or for a ringmain (UK) so why would a 15A circuit not suffice? I don't understand!
    – Tim
    Jan 2, 2023 at 13:40
  • 4
    @Tim existing circuit 120V. Needs 240V for oven Jan 2, 2023 at 15:37
  • 1
    While Ontario allows owners to do electrical work on their own home, it does not allow home owners to do their own electrical work for Condominium or Apartments. Only qualified electricians are legally allowed to work in Condominiums. Pure speculation here but I believe this is due to the multi-unit dwelling versus a duplex or detached home.
    – Forward Ed
    Jan 3, 2023 at 1:02

3 Answers 3


You need a new circuit. It should be 15A, 240V, which normally means a 15A double-breaker. You need a 4-wire circuit - hot/hot/neutral/ground. The oven is designed for hardwired connection not plug/cord. It is perfectly normal to use a gas cooktop (like you have now) or gas oven/cooktop (like you used to have) on a NEMA 5-15 plug/cord. However, while there are 240V and 240V/120V receptacles available, a wall oven is normally hardwired.

Depending on your setup, it may be trivially easy or it may be very hard to run that new circuit. The good news is that if your jurisdiction allows cable (as opposed to conduit), you can use 14/3 cable as it is only a 15A circuit. However, you might want to bump up to 12 AWG wire as that will allow future upgrades (up to 20A) without running new wire.

  • 3
    Manassehhaktz : Good advice, no way I'd run 14/3 to a cook-top even if it only required 15 amps 12/3 at a minimum. If the OP has to run a new cable, go big and future - proof. To the OP: A decent electrician should be able to run a new cable with minimal disruption, providing they have access to either a crawl space or attic. + Jan 2, 2023 at 1:10
  • 1
    I would hire a licensed electrician for the job. And probably go with a 12/3 cable thanks for the suggestions guys it was helpful.
    – Nitin
    Jan 3, 2023 at 19:11

Will need a new circuit from the panel, but depending on how the building is built, might just need a couple of small holes in the walls and do what is fish the wires though.

Being a multi-family unit/building, need to use a licensed electrician.

'A' is your only option. What you have as a receptacle/outlet now is just a regular 120v 15 amp outlet.


It is possible, however unlikely IMHO, that the receptacle already has 240 volts. You mentioned that the breaker is 20 amps. Split circuits are the norm and I believe the code for kitchen counter receptacles so you might have lucked out and the installer ran 12/3 to the range outlet in which case you would have a double pole breaker and two hots 180 degrees out of phase and neutral and ground in there already. You could wire the range right to the box. That of course would leave you with needing somewhere to plug the cooktop in but you could put another box beside the existing one and run one of the hots to it for 120V. The cooktop load is likely extremely low as it would be only supplying the sparker and some electronics and not the heat.

But like I said this is probably not the case. The giveaway would be a double pole 20 amp breaker.

  • There is a catch. If you have a hardwired device using >50% of the capacity of the circuit (this is close to 10A, so even with a 20A it may count as >50% because of continuous usage, I'm not 100% sure) then you can't have plug receptacles on the same circuit. Jan 2, 2023 at 21:18
  • The value in my comment was pointing out the remote possibility that the box might already have both phases in it. Piggybacking the single phase 120v load on one of those legs is beyond the scope of anything this amateur electrician has tried or read about. The concerns expressed by @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact are legitimate. The load according to the appliance specs posted by the OP is very close but below the 50% rule cited. None of this matters of course because as someone else pointed out, this is a shared dwelling and therefor you cannot legally do the work yourself
    – Milton
    Jan 2, 2023 at 23:03
  • It still matters. If legal to do so, having an electrician write up an MWBC for 120 and 240 is likely a lot cheaper than running a whole new circuit. Jan 2, 2023 at 23:08
  • 1
    I checked panel, unfortunately it has a single pole breaker. And like everybody suggested I anyways would have to call a licensed electrician as it concerns a condo unit. But in process I learned new things :D thanks guys
    – Nitin
    Jan 3, 2023 at 19:09

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