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I bought this pull-up bar ( https://trugrit-fitness.com/products/tru-grit-pull-up-bar-lite ) since it was on sale, but now I'm stumped on whether I am mounting it safely. Here is how I planned to install it, first my walls are plaster so using a stud finder or magnets was giving me inconsistent reading, so I ended up buying an endoscope camera to locate the studs which explains the holes in the walls which I will patch up later. The red outlines show the studs which I found out are 2x4 and are laying on the 4-inch side, so it only gives me 2 inches of depth to screw the lag screws.

enter image description here

I plan on using a 2x4 (which is outlined in black) that will span across 3 studs at the very top and use 3/8 lag screws to mount the 2x4 to the 3 studs. one more 2x4 that will span across 2 studs below the first one, Then another 2x4 that will span across 2 studs 23 inches below the previous 2x4.

I will then have a 2x4 right above the left side of the door frame to fill in the gap between the wall and the pull-up bar bracket. enter image description here

The final image has the pull-up bar bracket color-coded in pink which is how I plan to mount it. Should I be worried about it not being secured? are there modifications that I can make or should I ditch the plan entirely? enter image description here enter image description here

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  • Both sides of the pull up bar would be supported by 2x4 studs, directly or indirectly. Why do you think there is not enough support?
    – Yehuda_NYC
    Commented Dec 27, 2022 at 23:27
  • @Yehuda_NYC Mainly because I wasn't able to mount it directly to the studs in the walls and questioning whether the 2-inch depth (1 1/2 inch to be exact ) of the studs in the walls was enough length for the lag screw to grip and carry the weight of the bar and myself (190 lb). Also because I've never mounted something this heavy on my walls. Commented Dec 27, 2022 at 23:49
  • What is behind the flat-laying studs? The wall must be more than two inches thick. The door framing must be also, which I assume is why the left bracket relies on just one stud? Also what is on the other side of the wall?
    – jay613
    Commented Dec 28, 2022 at 11:46
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    I would be a little worried about hanging that bar from that wall. The bar comes out really far relative to the height of the mounting plates, meaning that you'll be putting a lot of torque on a fairly small thickness of wood. You probably won't break the studs outright, but you might bend them enough to crack the drywall or screw with the door.
    – Sneftel
    Commented Dec 28, 2022 at 13:44
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    If truly the wall is constructed with studs laid sideways and a plaster coating on both sides of them, and you don't know how the studs were fixed to the floor or ceiling, you should not mount a chin up bar on that wall at all. The whole wall could come down. OTOH the door looks like a traditional early 20th century one. Isn't it framed as it should be? Can you show us pictures of the door frame thickness, and how it interfaces with the supposedly very thin wall? Also, cheese goes on crackers, Nutella goes on a lightly toasted white pita. :)
    – jay613
    Commented Dec 28, 2022 at 14:52

3 Answers 3

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Don't

Based on your comments so far the wall was designed and built as a divider for a closet with sideways-mounted studs. You should not mount a chin up bar to this wall. It's strong enough to support the plaster on both sides of it, nothing more. The wall could flex under the force of a chin-up, and the plaster would all crack and crumble. Worst case if the studs were attached to the building with a "just enough" mindset, they could detach from the ceiling or floor and fall over.

Hopefully there is more to the wall than that and you'll tell us in the comments. But if that's the whole story, you should find a better location for the bar, on a stronger wall.

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    Thank you for the input, once I saw the studs mounted sideways, I started questioning its integrity with the pull-up bar mounted using those very studs. I plan on drilling holes on the adjacent wall to see how the studs are laid out. The adjacent wall is the wall that aligns with the side of my building though mounting it on that wall would mean me moving furniture around but I think I can make it work. Commented Dec 28, 2022 at 15:33
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Yes your plan to bridge across the missing studs is sound.

to protect the glass install a door stopper on the angle bracket and another on the floor.

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Canonical solution: mount wood or metal to studs to bridge the space where you want to hang the object, mount object to that bridge. A chunk of plywood might be good since it will distribute the torque forces over a larger area and give you room to run a few more screws into the studs.

Run it all the way down to the floor and it will also ensure you never kick a hole in your plaster. ;-)

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