Is it possible to use a SharkBite male adapter on a copper stub out for a bathtub faucet?

I am not well versed in soldering plumbing fittings and I would rather not have to buy the gas, a torch tip, flux, and solder just for one connection. Also, the copper stub out is only about 10" long and connects to Pex in the wall so keeping that amount of heat off the copper would be a good thing, right?

  • For future readers: You'd be surprised at how often a small propane/MAPP gas torch can come in handy, and for the price of a kit it's not a bad tool to have on hand. Many kits will come with solder & flux, too, and that stuff will last forever, should you ever need to solder another joint. Yes, I know this is 11 years old...
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jan 12 at 18:44

2 Answers 2


If you are trying to install a screw-on tub spout, it might not tighten up, because the SharkBite adapter will spin. You would need to use a wrench to tighten the SharkBite side, and that would be hard to do inside the spout.

Some spout basics:

Diverter vs tub only

  • Diverter spout models have a pull up knob that blocks the water flow, causing it to reverse and come out the shower head.
  • Tub only are just simple spouts, filling the tub.

Spout connection types There are three main types of how a spout connects to the pipe

  • 1 Front threaded. The pipe traverses the length of the spout internally, ending in a threaded fitting (usually 1/2" IPS). A front threaded spout usually does not integrate a diverter.

  • 2 Rear threaded. The pipe connection is made at the rear of the spout. These spouts can be either diverters or tub only.

  • 3 Slip on. These spouts will work with just a clean, open copper pipe, as it has a set screw adapter to clamp the pipe.

Slip on tub spout

Soldering to the nipple with the PEX attached is not optimum, but can be managed if you have room to tightly wrap a water saturated cotton rag around the copper and extended over the PEX portion. The water won't allow the PEX connection to go above 212 until it dries out. You will need several inches of bare copper pipe on the end to solder to. (Just TRY to a solder a pipe with any water in it.) Practice your soldering ahead of time and you will become confident of solid, leak free joints.

This thread has some good advice on soldering

This page describes tub spouts.

  • summarizing some of the information here from the linked page, would make this an awesomer answer.
    – Tester101
    Commented Mar 20, 2013 at 10:59
  • 2
    I decided ultimately to purchase a different tub spout than the one that came with the Moen shower/tub kit I purchased. The cost of purchasing soldering materials is the same as purchasing a new Moen tub spout with a slip-on connection. Thanks for the tip.
    – Ode
    Commented Mar 20, 2013 at 15:06

Here's a bathtub spout install with sharkbite. Run a length of 1/2 copper pipe as needed from bottom outlet of mixer (use 1/2” female sharkbite adapter) to about 4 inches above rim of bathtub. At bottom end of cooper pipe install a 1/2” sharkbite shower adapter upside down. Get a 1/2” steel pipe threaded at both ends from any hardware store. Screw one end into the spout until tight then screw the other end protruding from spout into the shower adapter. Use “tuff” at both ends to avoid leaks. I use a 6” steel pipe. That’s it. Works fine. (I’m not a plumber >>> DIY)

Tub and shower install using PEX

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