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I need to re-hang a sagging door (actually several). I've seen this question and answer, but wonder if my situation doesn't call for something a bit different. My issues: 1) its a heavy fire-door with a door-closer. 2) It is currently hanging completely on the door jamb. 3) Each hinge has 4 screw holes. 2 screws probably won't be able to bite the stud no matter what I do. For the other two screws I could probably get a minimum of 1/4-3/8 in clearance away from the edge of the stud if I angle the screws slightly.

I'm wondering if I'm just better off using machine screws with washers and nuts. I'm grateful for any advice.

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I see in your picture that there is a wooden shim between the door frame and the jack stud. Typically the frame should be screwed into the jack stud separately from the door hinge. The small door hinge screws should only have to hold onto the frame of the door and usually don't need to be driven into the wall stud.

A fire door can be quite heavy though and might need a bit more.

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You can see here that they make door hinge hardware that comes with at least one extra long wood screw that will anchor your door hinge to both the door frame and the jack stud. This will also further strengthen the door frame itself.

Go to the door accessory section of your local hardware store and find where they keep plastic packs of door hinge hardware. Each hinge typically comes with short screws and one long screw. Each pack is cheap, usually under $4, you will need three. Make sure you match the shape and hole pattern of the existing door hinge.

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    I had a similar problem on one of my doors, and simply buying a 2" screw instead of the 1" screws that were included with my hinges seems to have tightened things up for me. – geerlingguy Mar 17 '13 at 12:30
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In your specific case, the weight of the door has probably stressed the screws in the jambs and enlarged the jamb holes a bit, making it difficult to tork the hinges snug, thus causing the door to sag.

Since you already have a good shim between the jamb and stud, replace the short screws with some 2 to 2 1/2 inch wood screws. Typically size 10 to 12. Now, all the weight will be supported by the stud instead of the worn jamb. Also inspect the screws in the door side of the hinge to be sure they are secure. Longer screws there may help it bit if there is enough solid wood to bite to. If they are a bit loose also, put some wood shims coated with wood glue in the screw holes, let it cure and reinstall the hinges.

I should have mentioned, be sure to check the plumb of the jambs and adjust as required before reattaching the hinges and door.

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Here in the UK the law says that any work carried out on a firedoor should be certified. Please check your local laws and specifications. According to our standards your frame is too thin and there should be no gap between the frame and timber. We used to pack under the hinge with intumescent material made by Envirograf(UK), until you have an even gap of 3 mm between door and frame. Make sure the frame is up to the specifications, if not you may need new frames as well.

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You will need a plane and screwdriver,first try to see how much needs to come of the door.Then remove the door mark with a pencil all the way along the top of the door the amount that has to come of.Then step over the door with it lying on its edge and plane down to your mark sand the sharp edge of then replace the door.

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  • where did you get the idea the door needed to be planed? – Michael Bishop Mar 18 '13 at 15:14

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