I am pondering on how to go about my project. My house is laid out lengthwise with kitchen, dining room and living room in line. There is currently low profile carpet in the kitchen and dining room and regular carpet in the living room. Under the kitchen and dining room carpet, there is vinyl tile. The living room carpet was installed right to the floor boards.

I want to install solid hardwood through the kitchen, dining room and living room. I'm unsure if I can install 1/8" underlayment in the living room to make up the difference of the tile or remove all the tile. The tile was installed with tar adhesive and it is a royal pain to take up. I did this in a 9x6 bathroom and it was a nightmare. Used a heat gun and scraper. I'd rather not have to do that in a 350 sq/ft area.

What would be the best option?

  • I would be concerned of the hardwood floor "flexing" on the underlayment.
    – Traveler
    Nov 11, 2022 at 4:24
  • 2
    Sounds like a good place to install a "floating floor.'
    – keshlam
    Nov 11, 2022 at 6:38
  • What sort of underlayment can be had in 1/8" thickness? What is the tile bonded to?
    – isherwood
    Nov 11, 2022 at 14:07
  • It's easier to just rip up the subfloor if it's cutback. What kind of underlayment material is this?. If it's 1/2 plywood, now's a good time to make it the minimum 5/8s it has to be, or the 3/4s it should be.
    – Mazura
    Nov 12, 2022 at 2:22

1 Answer 1


I assume you'll be nailing down the flooring. If so, the vinyl shouldn't pose a problem. If you intend to glue it down also for sound and stability, the tile presents a failure point to be avoided.

1/8" is small enough that I'd probably transition rather than seek a consistent level. A leveling compound troweled over 2-3 feet with a straightedge will yield a slope invisible to the eye and undetectable to the feet, assuming no ground-level windows to produce glare.

The top and bottom of the slope should be rounded slightly rather than angular--you don't want a rocking point. A belt sander could help at the top. Check your work with a long straightedge. No gap should be more than about 1/32", and none should be abrupt.

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