TLDR: the cheapie 14-50s are made for unplugging once every 20 years when you buy a new range. The quality 14-50s are made for daily use at RV parks. But consider alternatives for many reasons.
The common beliefs in the EV community are wrong
Because they are EV owners, not electricians.
However you've been swept along in this "stock advice that is wrong", and I implore you to turn away from that path before you sink any money into hardware.
Otherwise you will end up in a dumb situation where you are overloading your house for a charger you use once a week LOL.
You don't need a huge charger. I know the subject better than Alec from Technology Connections, and Alec is correct unlike almost every other Youtuber* out there. Here - on sizing your charge speed. I cued you up to 32:55, the meat is just a couple of minutes long.
That travel charger is really meant to live in your trunk and be used, you know, for travel. The two sockets are the normal socket + a NEMA 14-50 RV socket because those are found at RV sites. EVs don't even use the neutral. (yes I know your tossed-in "travel EVSE" only has 2 speeds; we'll come back to that.)
First fatal error: The house probably can't power this
Builders are cheap, and they're not in the habit of building houses with 50A of reserve capacity. Services are 100A, 125A or 200A mostly, so this is a huge fraction of total capacity.
Panel loading computed via NEC Article 220's Load Calculation. It's strange, but it's data-driven science and it's proven valid. When a major load is added, the Load Calculation must be re-done. Adding an EV is definitely one of those times.
It's very common to find 50A is "a bridge too far", but 20-30A is viable... and if you made it in that video to where Alec is waving around yellow Romex, you're not worried.
Also, there are ways to share the slot in the Load Calculation with other appliances, particularly dryers if they have 4-prong sockets.
How do we get other 'speeds' on a travel EVSE?
Like this if your travel EVSE sells other dongles.
See, each dongle plug has a microchip inside. The microchip says "Hey, I'm a 30A plug!" and the EV says "OK, I'll draw the right amount of current for that". EV charging is slick. So if you install a 20A circuit just install a 20A socket and order that dongle plug. Easy peasy.
(note that using "cheater cords" with travel EVSEs is a recipe for disaster.)
Another way is to go with a wall EVSE, which is either set to the appropriate amperage at install time, or is hardwired that way from the factory coughCrippleCreekcough. It automatically tells the car "Hey, you're on a 20A circuit".
Oh, snap. GFCI requirements.
First, let's be clear: EVSE's already contain a smart GFCI that knows how to self-reset. So adding a dumb GFCI means waking up to a tripped GFCI breaker, totally unnecessary.
And what's more, the only way to protect a 240V socket is a costly 2-pole GFCI breaker, which must be right for your panel (procurement headaches) and isn't even available for older panels like Pushmatic or early GE.
Fortunately, you only need GFCI protection if 3 things are true.
- your state has adopted NEC 2020
- your state did not delete the requirement (many did)
- you use an EVSE that connects "cord-and-plug" (not hard-wired).
This is a good case for a hardwired EVSE, which must necessarily be a wall unit.
So if your state requires GFCI, that's a case for stepping away from the "travel EVSE" as your primary unit and using a hardwired wall unit.
A lot of people are in a hurry to "save money" by using the provided travel EVSE as their daily charger. But then they have to buy a $150 GFCI breaker, a $60 quality socket and weird box lid (people have a lot of trouble finding the right lids), very costly 6/3 w/ground cable -- and they wind up flying right past the cost of a $400 Tesla Wall Connector, $12 breaker and some 12/2 Romex.
To answer your question, though.
What people say on the internet about cheapie NEMA 14-50 sockets is entirely valid. Prior to 1996, dryers and ranges weren't required to be grounded, and the following logic was used: "Dryers and ranges are rarely unplugged, so the plug and socket are unlikely to have a problem. As such, the neutral is probably reliable enough to serve as ground". The body count ultimately said otherwise. And what emerged was that large 30 and 50 amp sockets are not designed to survive daily plug/unplug. That is, you buy a range every 20 years and they're designed for that.
Of course that isn't good enough for an RV park, so the industry responded with industrial-grade 14-50s which are made for daily plug/unplug.
Wait. Dryer cheat?
Yes. In the Load Calculation, a dryer is allocated 5500 watts. A "30 amp" EVSE (actually providing 24A continuous to the EVSE) is allocated 5760W. Close enough.
Now here's the cool part. Code allows any number of 30A general-purpose receptacles on a 30A circuit. (NEC 210.21 and 210.23). So you can have 1 general purpose circuit feeding a dryer and a general purpose 30A receptacle in the garage. If you plug an EV into it from time to time, good on you.
The gotcha here is that thing about dryer circuits not being grounded prior to 1996. The good news is, ungrounded cables quickly went obsolete by 1970, so they were supposed to have run 10/3 w/ground cable to even a 3-prong (hot-hot-neutral) dryer circuit. If both neutral and ground are present in the box, the circuit can be extended to a NEMA 6-30 or 14-30 socket (whichever your EVSE has a plug for).
Just don't use the dryer and EVSE at the same time, but, that's true of anything (e.g. in the kitchen don't use two 1500W heat appliances on the same circuit at the same time). No interlock is needed (though they sell some fancy ones).
This does not work with water heaters (which are only 4500W anyway) without some sort of interlock. Doesn't work with ranges (can't have 2 sockets on a 40-50A circuit). It might work with A/C units with a certain trick.
* Youtube is a racket. It exposes people "good at the Youtube ranking game" and NOT experts. The only Youtubers I've found who get their facts straight are Blancolirio, Benjamin Sahlstrom, John Ward, Technology Connections and maybe Perun (whose methods seem sound, but I don't know The Dismal Science enough to fact-check).