I have a 420 square foot room that I'd like to install hardwood flooring. Half of the room is an addition and where the addition starts, the floor starts to slope down to about 1 inch on the far side. The other half is perfectly level and both halves are flat enough to install any flooring. The problem is getting across from the level half to where it starts to slope.


Is there an easy way to do this without dumping tons of leveling compound? Should I even try to build it up to level it off when it's already flat? There is a brick fireplace hearth that expands the entire width of the room at the low end so I'm not even sure bringing the floor up to level it is a good idea.

One option I can think of is installing the flooring as 2 separate rooms and putting a transition piece over the middle like this...

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I'm just worried it's going to look stupid or I'm going to discover some easy alternative after it's already done. I'd like to know what my options are here. Thanks.

  • I know it is not the norm, but recon if you install boards across the floor instead of length ways, you could plan it to hit the joint in the middle of the room, then it would flow and your eye would not see it as much. You would have to live with the floor direction change though, so may wanna layout some and see how it looks
    – Chris
    Oct 16, 2022 at 3:55
  • Some questions to help with an answer: Is the hearth raised at the slopped end? What is your subfloor made of?
    – RMDman
    Oct 16, 2022 at 12:31
  • @RMDman Yes, the hearth is raised about 8 inches. Subfloor is plywood. There is no crawl space underneath this part of the house. I've seen people cut the subfloor out and sister new joists to the existing ones. I'm not sure if that's really worth it for a one inch slope.
    – Rob
    Oct 16, 2022 at 14:51
  • @Chris I've been considering that as well.
    – Rob
    Oct 16, 2022 at 14:52

1 Answer 1


If the floor is in good shape, no bounce no rot in the wood, I would add durarock to the lowest end to reduce the amount of leveling compound needed. Screw it in with a rock-on screw in every sq. ft. and every ft along the perimeter. seal all the seams with caulk and tape along the walls. Then seal the floor with a latex sealer to prevent the wood from absorbing the water in the compound. Get multiple buckets and a wand mixer for your drill and a carpet rake, ( a lot cheaper and easier to find than a leveling rake). Mark the high point at the far end with a line. Invite as many friends over that will come and mix up leveling compound and pour it out using the rake to push and pull it to the needed area. Remember you only have about 20 min. to work before it starts to harden. Don't try to taper it all the way to the level existing floor. You will have an edge that will be a pain to try to grind down. Stop a little short and fill in that area with a leveling paste and a flat trowel after the compound has cured. It's a lot of work, but still easier than pulling up plywood and sistering joists only to still have dips and bows because the lumber is not perfect.

  • Thanks for the advice. I'd like to avoid any type of liquid floor level if possible. Maybe if it was an old house with peaks and valleys but the subfloors are pretty much as flat as they could get except for maybe a slight hump over the middle to grind off. Seems like raising the subfloor would be a better option if I were to go that route.
    – Rob
    Oct 17, 2022 at 3:41

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