On an outdoor sub panel with grounding rods can I bond the grounding rod's wire directly to the inside of the metal electric panel, and then attach all the other ground wires to a grounding bar. The issue I'm having is the existing grounding rod's wire is too short to reach the grounding bar in the upgraded panel I'm installing, and I know I cannot splice it.
8
-
2Quite sure it must be to the bus bar, and the panel is grounded from the bar. It might be possible to move the bus bar closer to the wire. Add a picture of the panel showing the panel, wire, and ground bus for a good answer.– crip659Commented Oct 15, 2022 at 14:36
-
1The grounding rod wire reaches to the neutral bar on the right side of the panel. There is only room to install a grounding bar on the left side and the wire is too short to reach it. Seems my only choice is to ground the neutral bar to the box and make it the grounding bar, and then install a new neutral bar on the left side.– Commander DavidCommented Oct 15, 2022 at 14:50
-
That is possible also. As long as the neutral and ground bars are not bonded, which is used does not matter or what side they are on.– crip659Commented Oct 15, 2022 at 14:54
-
@CommanderDavid -- can you route the incoming equipment grounding conductor to meet the grounding electrode conductor, then head to the busbar?– ThreePhaseEelCommented Oct 15, 2022 at 15:21
-
Yes, but wouldn't that be splicing the grounding electrode conductor which I understand by code is not allowed. Everything I'm hearing is that the grounding electro conductor should be connected directly to the grounding bus bar.– Commander DavidCommented Oct 15, 2022 at 16:23
|
Show 3 more comments
1 Answer
Yes, that is fine. The metal enclosure is an acceptable destination for the GEC.
Note also that there is no limit to the number of accessory ground bars allowed in a panel. They can be anywhere except bolted to a knockout.
Since splicing is not allowed, the GEC must make proper contact with the metal enclosure. This can be:
a bolt and nut through a hole drilled in the panel enclosure. Scrape the paint where the ground lug or bar contacts the enclosure.
Mounting screw(s) with #8-32 or #10-32 fine threads, into a hole drilled and tapped the same. Self-threading screws are fine. The reason for the fine thread is to allow electrical contact - coarse thread or sheet metal screw won't cut it. The panel may have such holes already tapped 8-32 just waiting for an 8-32 screw.
When I had to do that, I used a lug like this.
answered Oct 16, 2022 at 1:08
Harper - Reinstate MonicaHarper - Reinstate Monica
308k27 gold badges293 silver badges754 bronze badges
-
I posted a similar question here awhile back and none of the responders suggested I should make this connection. I then posted it again with different wording and got your excellent response. You can see the previous responder stated "Quite sure it must be to the bus bar." Since I needed to move forward with this project I went ahead and converted the neutral to ground and installed a new isolated neutral bar on the left side. I suppose I could go back now and reconfigure everything as original and bond the GEC to the panel. Here's a photo of the panel I just finished yesterday: Commented Oct 16, 2022 at 15:28
-
-
@CommanderDavid That question you are referring to, I also saw, and answered. And then you commented to ask me if you could do exactly what my answer advised. And I said yes. And then you asked a 3rd time here and I wrote the same answer again. Then you ignored all of that. Sorry to say this, but your root problem here is listening to? understanding? or respecting? advice. Something is going on there, can't guess what but I'd consider that. If everyone says not to do a thing and you do it anyway, shrug why even ask? Commented Oct 16, 2022 at 20:03