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I currently have 4 energy saver bulbs running on one dimmer swtich.

I would like to change the dimmer switch for a remote switch, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CXCHFYC (DEWENWILS Wireless Light Switch and Receiver Kit).

The remote unit is rated for 1000W capacity, so it think its safe and my 4 bulbs, but wanted to be sure.

As well, the remote unit has 4 wires (black, white, blue and red). I would be very grateful for advice how these colors be attached to my existing wiring? Pictures below.

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    That particular switch is "cheap cheese from overseas" and is not safe to use, nor is it legal to sell or use in North America. It's straight off Alibaba, where it sells for maybe $1. youtube.com/watch?v=GCTiU2ZHVwI We recommend very strongly, do not buy electrical gear on Amazon, since they opened their storefront to 3rd party sellers, reducing Amazon to basically eBay lol. Mail order is generally bad; reputable storefront retail is safe. (e.g. Ace or Lowes, not local flea market). Aug 30, 2022 at 21:03

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To answer your question in the simplest sense, yes you certainly can replace a switch (dimmer or otherwise) with a remotely-controlled switch.

However, you absolutely should not use the device you have linked. As stated in the other answers and comments, that particular device is poorly designed, probably unsafe, and definitely something I would never want to permanently connect to my mains wiring.

Use a UL-listed, approved remote switching system from a well-known brand of switching devices. For example, the Lutron Caseta system does exactly what you want (not a specific product recommendation - just an example). Lutron Caseta Wireless Switches Product Site

I'm sure the other large lighting and switching manufacturers have similar products - Leviton, Hubbell, etc. I just suggested Lutron as an example because I've used a lot of their products in the past.

Best part: in addition to having to prove that their devices are designed to not burn your house down, a switch or dimmer from one of those manufacturers will also come with instructions that don't require interpretation or force you to do anything contrary to the electrical code.

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Should not be to hard. The black and white of the new switch connects to the black and white of the power cable. The blue and red of new switch connects to the black and white of the cable for the lights.

You also have at least one ground not connected, not good, should be connected to the other ground wire at least. Should have the old switch grounded also if it has ground screw, usually green.

You will need to determine which cable is the power and which is for the lights. A non contact voltage tester might tell the power wire from the switched(lights) with the power on and the dimmer off, but can be iffy, might read power on the off wire.

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    -1 sorry. But this is definitely wrong and not safe. Except in a switch loop (which is not the case here as there are two cables involved, not 1), white to the fixture is neutral. No ordinary residential switch will pass neutral through the switch - it may be needed for the switch to power it, but neutral to the fixture will be separate. Typical is neutral in + neutral to switch + neutral to fixture all connected together. My best guess is that of blue & red of new switch, one is switched hot and the other is for use when configured as a 3-way switch with another switch elsewhere. Aug 31, 2022 at 15:09
  • @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact You are probably correct. I was going by how the switch ad showed it was connected, which is probably wrong.
    – crip659
    Aug 31, 2022 at 15:29
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    Actually, I just looked at the Amazon listing. DO NOT USE THIS DEVICE -- EVER. It shows blue & red as inputs - that is non-standard as neutral should be white. FYI (not your fault - it makes no sense...) that is backwards of what you stated of black & white as the inputs. Then it has black and white as hot & neutral outputs. Which is totally wrong. No normal residential US device has switched neutral. In fact, even US circuit breakers, disconnect switches, etc. don't switch neutral. This thing is most definitely not UL/ETL/etc. certified and no way it could be without being redesigned. Aug 31, 2022 at 15:36

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