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Context: Working on an addition. I am replacing a load bearing wall with a 5.25" x 14" x 18.5 ft PSL beam. The beam will carry the load of the roof with point loads at the end of rafters and joists. Rafters and joists are 24 on center. The beam will not be directly on top of the wall but skewed 3.5" towards the existing roof. Which means, that the joists and rafters end will have to be cut 10.25 in from the outside face of the existing wall (wall to be replaced with beam). 10.25in = top plate 3.5" + beam thickness 5.25" + vertical ledger 2x8 1.5". The engineer calls for U24 and U26 hardware to be placed at the end of joists(2x6) and rafters (2x4) on the 2x8 ledger siting against the beam on the existing structure side. See detail below

Questions

  1. How do I fit a U24 and U26 side by side for rafters and joists given they are adjacent to each-other (not on top of each other) by side by side with no gap? see detail
  2. Any alternative recommendations?
  3. Would using (2) LUC26Z work?

See detail below for reference. Note the existing rafter and joist meeting the ledger with U hardware support.

Detail

LUC26Z

2 Answers 2

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First off this question should be addressed to your engineer. Ask them how this is to be done as drawn. I do not see it being feasible. Most of them are good people and should be glad to help work out a solution with you.

Alternately, your idea of using a double 2x hanger with angle cut blocking to support the rafter is my best solution. If your ceiling joists are say 2x6 then I would cut a 2x6 that is 2 or 3 feet long with the angle on one end to support the rafter. Run it side by side along next to the joist. Then fasten it with several nails.

I do not like the idea of separating the rafter from the joist (even if you could). Having the ceiling joist and rafter fastened together adds to the overall integrity of the ceiling/ roof.

Also the inverted hanger idea (nailing flanges on the inside of the hanger) is a total no go- this would not work at all in this situation.

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    First off this question should be addressed to your engineer. That should be heavily emphasized. If he drew an impossible installation, he should be able to explain how to make it possible.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Aug 31, 2022 at 12:27
  • Thank you @Kyle. How about using (2) LUC26Z? The flanges are inward rather than outward so that they can be placed side by side and the load capacity is grater than U26.
    – Max
    Commented Aug 31, 2022 at 13:52
  • I do not see the inverted hanger "Hidden flange" as being so practical. You would have to install them onto the beam before you install the beam and then thread them onto the joists and rafters as you install the beam- not so easy. Also it seems there would be some of the nailing into the sides of the joist/ rafter that you could not get to because they would be covered up by the other board.
    – Kyle
    Commented Aug 31, 2022 at 15:50
  • Thank you. Yes, not so easy but do-able. The nailing would be the same if I were to use a double U. In both cases I will have to nail both the rafter and the joist together anyway.
    – Max
    Commented Aug 31, 2022 at 17:06
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The existing rafter and joist are directly inline with each other.

What prevents you from skewing each to the side such that the flanges of the U hangers that want to overlap no longer overlap?

There are also hidden flange hangers - I think I've used them for joists before where the fasterners go into the portion of the hanger you can't see once the joist is inserted.

I've also had the case where two beams are side by side and while I could put the fasteners into the flange of the hidden flange hangers I could only do the exterior side of the fasteners from the hanger into the PSL. The engineer approved only having one side into the member but I had to bolt the two members together using 3/8" rod at 16" oc alternating top and bottom.

Those are some ideas that could work you'll ultimately still need your engineer to sign off.

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  • Thank you @Fresh Codemonger. I have thought of skewing (move slightly the rafters and joists horizontally to create enough space for the flanges to not overlap). Because of the way the joist and rafters are fastened in the sheathing and ceiling, there is little room to bend horizontally and a part the joist and rafter. I have also thought about using a double U so that both rafter and joist fit into one. That said, given that the rafter is coming at an angle, there will be a gap between the bottom of the rafter and the bottom of the U (perhaps 2in). Which could be filled with a 2x4 cut.
    – Max
    Commented Aug 30, 2022 at 20:00

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