Disclaimer: I am very newbie when it comes to DIY stuff, so be patient :)

So I have installed this hose hanger into my exterior brick wall using 12V cordless drill. Looks sturdy, but I do have some questions.

  • I couldn't drill beyond 1 inch as I kept hitting something solid for all positons.
  • I used dollar store screws with rubber anchors. I know it is not right choice, but can you recommend something self drilling screws or something.
  • How can I fill old holes in the brick?
  • Last but not the least, how can I be sure that I didn't drill into anything other than brick especially hose/water line?

Newly installed hose hanger

1 Answer 1


First of all, if you only drilled an inch or so into the brick, it's almost impossible that you've hit any utilities. Most of the time that brick at the base of exterior walls is just a veneer anyway and the utilities are in the stud wall behind.

As for mounting, you have two options - you can either use expanding anchors (like you did), or you can use a masonry screw like a Tapcon or other brand. Either way works, but the key thing for both is to pre-drill the holes with a masonry bit.

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With a masonry bit, your 12V cordless drill should be just fine, but you were probably going too fast and that's why you were only able to go an inch deep. Drilling into masonry creates a lot of dust and a lot of heat. The wider tip of the masonry bit creates a little room for the dust so it doesn't bind. Going slow and optionally cooling the bit with oil or water will help keep you from just turning the bit into slag.

Finally, fill any extra holes with a masonry patching compound. You can get little tubs of pre-mixed mortar/cement for small projects at the hardware store - sometimes even in a few colors to match common brick colors.

  • 3
    Generally good answer (+1). But from experience (having started with 12V drills years ago), 18V (or 20V - as I understand it, 18V and 20V are really the same, just naming convention varies by brand - round up vs. round down) is a lot more powerful. Though today's 12V may be better than the ones from 20 years ago. But in addition, a hammer drill makes a huge difference on brick/block/etc. I had one little hole and was struggling with a regular drill. Got a hammer drill and - same bit - got through it in seconds. Commented Aug 23, 2022 at 20:36
  • 1
    @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact Very true. Craftsman even used to use 19.2V in their branding, but I think those were back in the Ni-Cad or NiMh days. Either way, agreed - a hammer drill would be 100% better, but I didn't figure that the OP wanted to spend the $$$ on a new tool (could be wrong). The 12V will do the job, just not as well/quickly. :)
    – Chris O
    Commented Aug 23, 2022 at 20:41
  • Thank you @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact and Chris O for excellent explanation/suggestion. However follow up questions. -Do you know how deep these bricks are? -Based on the picture, can you tell where the water line will be going through/from? Will a stud finder (with water sensor) help? -I usually buy handy tools, but if hammer drill is expensive then it may not worth it as I don't drill many holes in brick. Commented Aug 23, 2022 at 21:17
  • 3
    My best guess is that the bricks are the thickness of the bricks in the upper-left - i.e., that they are all the same type of bricks and that row of "small" bricks is actually the same type of bricks as the rest of the wall, but turned 90 degrees. I agree that there is likely (based on typical US construction) stud walls behind the bricks, but can't say for sure. As far as the water line, it could turn and go up or down or left or right - impossible to guess from the outside. I am dubious about a stud finder working reliably through bricks. Commented Aug 23, 2022 at 21:27
  • 2
    As someone who has occasionally pierced water lines, you’ll know if you do. Water hisses and sometimes sprays you in the face. Commented Aug 24, 2022 at 1:17

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