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I’d like to convert the lower spout on my outdoor shower (current a tub fixture) to a garden hose spigot. What sort of coupling/fitting do I need to do this? I don't have easy access to the plumbing on the interior of the house (it's sheetrocked in), just the metal pipe that comes through the wall. I also don't have any experience with soldering -- if I can avoid that, great, but otherwise I'm open to learning a new skill.

It's both hot and cold water, controlled by the fixture valve above. I'm assuming that when the new spigot is closed, that will turn on the shower head, and when it's open, that will divert the water through the spigot.

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    Solder not that hard if everything is nice and clean, but these days there are many different types of solderless connections that make plumbing easy. That copper is probably 1/2 inch size, maybe 3/4 inch size, knowing that all you need to do now is to pick out the type of fitting.
    – crip659
    Commented Jul 22, 2022 at 17:25
  • Thanks -- so it's as simple as (1) solder on a product like this (homedepot.com/p/…) (2) build a little box around it to conceal the pipe? And optionally cut the existing pipe shorter first I guess.
    – Aaron
    Commented Jul 22, 2022 at 17:49
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    The pipe needs to cleaned/sanded first to removed all of the oxidation and dirt. it should look bright and shinely before soldering, almost like that faucet in the picture. Having longer pipe is usually nicer than too short, but some of that pipe can be cut.
    – crip659
    Commented Jul 22, 2022 at 17:57
  • Does your outdoor shower have no tub, yet it has a tub-spout shower/tub combo valve? Odd choice if so. If not, consider reversibility when changing this. I guess not, I see boards below...
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Jul 22, 2022 at 19:48

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While I ordinarily avoid the slip on couplings, in this particular case I'd consider one specifically because learning to solder pipes without hands-on teaching is difficult, even though the process is quite simple - there are also many simple ways to go wrong. For one fitting, it costs more than a soldered fitting, but probably less than the torch and solder and flux and soldered fitting (a little hunk of high temperature insulation to keep from setting wood on fire is often good to have as well, in household plumbing), so unless you have more soldering planned it's likely cheaper, as well.

Depending how much resistance is on the hose (length and/or nozzles) the shower may spray even when you have it open. Your "hose pressure" will be limited to that allowed by the elevation of the showerhead - typically less than 2 PSI before the shower will start dribbling, and as you go higher the shower will spray more. As such, this may not actually work how you want it to, depending how you want it to work, or what you plan to do with the hose.

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  • As a followup, you were right about the shower head continuing the run when the spigot is open (and now I understand why). It runs a little even without the hose or hose nozzle connected. It's sufficient for what I needed (filling up a kiddie pool with warm water on rare occasions) but it's not ideal.
    – Aaron
    Commented Oct 13, 2022 at 15:37

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