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I need a long cord to mow the lawn (around 150 ft long)

Greenworks 13A mower

I could not find any cords this long

I am planning to connect two 100ft cords together.

my question is what type of cords do i need so i make sure the mower is going to work perfectly

and what do 12/3 and 14/3 and 16/3 mean and which is better?

Here are some examples of the cords that i found

Cord #1

Cord #2

Cord #3

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    @jay613, many of us are no longer content to dump the results of internal fossil combustion into our ever-hotter atmosphere. Many of us are also patient enough to sacrifice a bit of convenience for the sake of the fragile blue planet our kids have loaned us.
    – isherwood
    Jul 12, 2022 at 21:19
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    A battery powered mower is also an option if you don't want to use gasoline.
    – Grant
    Jul 13, 2022 at 1:19
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    @isherwood Fair enough, but perhaps those of us who feel that way and also have 200 foot gardens do something other than completely cover them with grass. Anyway idk OP's ideals, only her problem.
    – jay613
    Jul 13, 2022 at 2:51
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    @isherwood so you switch to coal power? Anyway, whatever gauge the power cord is, it should be bright orange so it won't get mowed over too often.
    – bobflux
    Jul 13, 2022 at 10:01
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    Don't forget, @isherwood, there is a very high likelihood that something, somewhere is being burned to bring you all that "green" electricity. Except that everyone screams every time someone wants to put up some sort of new electrical production facility and that nobody want to pay for infrastructure upgrades. (See: California)
    – FreeMan
    Jul 13, 2022 at 12:49

3 Answers 3

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The first value of the cord types you listed is the conductor size. The second is the number of conductors. You don't necessarily need a /3 cord, which includes the grounding path for safety, as your mower is "double insulated", but almost any cord in the lengths we're discussing will have it.

The owner's manual makes it fairly clear what size you need:

Extension Cord: Verify that the extension cord is in good condition, is heavy enough to carry the current that your mower will draw, and is polarized (one blade of the plug is wider than the other). A 50’ (15 m) extension cord should be of 16 AWG, a 100’ (30 m) extension cord should be 14 AWG, and a 150’ (45 m) extension cord should be 12 AWG. Undersized cords cause a drop in the line voltage, which leads to a loss of power and overheating.

The implication here is that 150' is the practical limitation of the device given its electrical current requirement. If you go beyond that (to no more than 200'), I propose two options:

  • Look for a #10 initial 100' cord, and use only a #12 second 100' cord (if you want off-the-shelf components). This reduces resistance (and voltage drop) to what are probably acceptable levels.

  • Order a 200' #12 cord or custom-build one with by-the-foot cord cable and replacement plugs. 200' is pushing it with regard to conductor size, but by eliminating the set of plugs in the middle you reduce resistance.

Other important tips:

  • Be sure all plugs and outlets are of high quality and in good working order. Sloppy, worn outlets are a recipe for overheating and possibly fire.

  • Be sure to secure the cords so that strain is not applied to electrical connections. A double-wrap on a post or railing baluster can do well. Avoid sharp kinks in the cord.

  • #14 and #16 cords should not be used at all, in any configuration. Doing so can create fire hazards or damage the cords or the mower.

  • If mowing continues for more than say 30 minutes at a time, feel for excess heat at all connection points. Plugs grow warm under heavy use, and if they get too warm the plastic will melt, which can result in short-circuits.

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  • Asmgx yes 2ea # 12 cords will be fine.
    – Ed Beal
    Jul 12, 2022 at 18:51
  • Two 100 ft , 12 gage lines exceed the manufacturers guide . Cut one 100 ft cord to 50 ft and put on a new end or connect it to the other 100 ft cord to make 150 ft. The cord resistance depends on the total cord length, not how much length you need.
    – blacksmith37
    Jul 12, 2022 at 19:19
  • No, buy the /3 cord as you will surely need it for something else in the future. Unless you buy a separate extension cord for each device...
    – Solar Mike
    Jul 13, 2022 at 8:22
  • @SolarMike - I got round that some 50 yrs ago, cutting the cables to about 8"-10" on each of many electical items (saws, planes, grinders, etc.), and attatching a kettle socket to each instead. Then all that was needed was one extension lead to where the work was, with a kettle plug on its end. Can't use more than one tool at a time, and the safety factor was very quick disconnection when needed - never had to use it. Even heavy saw benches had a socket fitted to the frame. Serves me well still. Tidying up at end of job, and equipment, was quicker and tidier too.
    – Tim
    Jul 13, 2022 at 13:05
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Isherwood answers the OP's question, but surely an easier solve to the problem is an outdoor socket at the half-way point up the lawn? That allows a 'normal' cable to be used, with no power drop at all, and at the end, a darned sight less cable to store away. And dragging a 150' cable behind you when mowing isn't the easiest.

Sometimes looking at a problem from a different angle will produce a different, maybe better, solution. And when you do mow over the 75' cable, it's cheaper and easier to replace than the 150' one OP is considering.

So, blatantly not answering the question per se, but solving the problem. In a better way! Dvers, please explain why!

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  • I'm not the DVer. So not answering the question is probably the reason for the DV. Your suggestion was listed as a comment, where it belonged, 17 hours ago. The OP might not want an outlet sticking out of the ground where kids running around could get injured, his choice.
    – JACK
    Jul 13, 2022 at 12:26
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    Hiring an electrician (likely) and getting a permit (locale dependent) to dig a ditch and run ~100' of conduit and/or direct bury UF cable to a post somewhere in the yard to install an outlet isn't everybody's idea of "easier". That one time cost will take quite a number of years to pay back over the cost of replacing extension cords as they wear out and/or get cut by the mower.
    – FreeMan
    Jul 13, 2022 at 12:51
  • @JACK - thanks for the input. Would be nice if OP commented, and left more relevant information. Quite often, I see questions, where OP has only thought so far, and a better solution to the actual problem is never going to be bourne out by merely answering the uestion, per se. Thus my answer, as is.
    – Tim
    Jul 13, 2022 at 15:10
  • @FreeMan - yes, so once again, not knowing location means any answer goes off at half-cock. I did similar (in UK) several years ago, using plastic waste pipe. Wasn't aware of any local rules and regs, but it worked well for me. Not that I could suggest doing that, it's not my job. However, as a solution to the problem, it does stand as one, which, just maybe, OP havdn't considered. Still awaiting OP's response. Just esablished it's probably Oz. Do they have rules and regs there..?!
    – Tim
    Jul 13, 2022 at 15:14
  • From what I've learned here (and is quite possibly very wrong), in Aus, about the only electrical work a home owner is allowed to do is change a light bulb. Again, might be very wrong on that. Also, I know in the US, "waste pipe" (which I read as plumbing waste pipe) is illegal to use as electrical conduit (it's not listed as meeting NEC, ergo, illegal to use). I realize rules are different in different countries, so that may be perfectly legal in the UK.
    – FreeMan
    Jul 14, 2022 at 14:29
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Now that you know the right cord size from @isherwood answer here is some more info:

Preferably the cord should be plugged in a GFCI plug.

Joining two cords you should use "Outdoor cord safety protector"

Nothing will stop you eventually running over the cord with lawnmower and potentially shredding the cord.

cord

You might consider getting battery operated Lawnmower, been the safest solution for you, and you do not have to deal with tangled cord.

Ignore the negative votes, the answer is correct.

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    Not the DVer but as you mentioned, the question had been answered. "Some more info:" should be added in the comments or in some cases edited into the answer but not submitted as an answer.
    – JACK
    Jul 13, 2022 at 12:32
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    "Ignore the negative votes, the answer is correct." of course it is! It was provided by "knowitall"!
    – FreeMan
    Jul 13, 2022 at 12:51
  • @FreeMan "freeman" from what ? common courtesy ?
    – Ruskes
    Jul 16, 2022 at 3:05

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