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In our foyer a section of ~7/8 thickness rock-lath ceiling (sheetrock + sanded plaster basecoat reinforced by expanded mesh + plaster skim-coat) was cut out between the floor joists in conjunction with a bathroom remodel above. To begin to replace that section of ceiling I've screwed 3/8 sheetrock to the joists. Now I want to put a 3/8" base-coat of perlite plaster over the sheetrock and follow up with a 1/8" skim coat.

But I have nothing but expletives for the task of trying to affix expanded metal mesh to the sheetrock overhead in a one-man-with-only-two-hands scenario, so that the mesh is taut and doesn't sag like a #@(@$&* hammock.

Is there some kind of plastic lattice or honeycomb with sufficient tensile strength so it could be used in place of the expanded metal mesh and give the perlite-plaster base-coat something to "key" into and also provide some structural reinforcement?

EDIT: The expanded metal mesh is not flat. It is cheap stuff from the big box stores that might as well have been sat upon by somebody and stretched out of shape. It needs to be pulled really taut to eliminate the sag and that's almost impossible to do by hand.

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  • Please clarify/translate the #@(@$&
    – Traveler
    Commented Jul 9, 2022 at 21:06
  • I would use 2 or more lateral board strips (1/8), to hold the net in place without #@(@$&*
    – Traveler
    Commented Jul 9, 2022 at 21:08
  • I do not know what a lateral board strip is. Please clarify. If adding additional thickness the strip would have to be no thicker than 1/16".
    – mr blint
    Commented Jul 9, 2022 at 22:42
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    Most repairs like that are made with sheetrock brought down, in your case, flush to the ceiling and finished with drywall tape and mud. This is a comment since it does not answer your specific question. If you wish to be the purist and still use plaster and all the associated materials, there are no shortcuts.
    – Jack
    Commented Jul 10, 2022 at 2:51
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    You can use 1/2" or 5/8" either one works, the trick is adding wood to the joists, either beside it by sistering or custom ripping to thickness to be added to the underside, then add the sheetrock. Everything will line up flush so a thin skim can go over the tape after it is applied. The surface of the plaster will have so many coats of paint over it after so may years, any repair will be detected because of the surface texture, because of this.
    – Jack
    Commented Jul 10, 2022 at 15:01

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They do make a fiberglass version of the classic metal mesh, (example, no affiliation: FibaLath). However, I think you will have difficulties using it on a ceiling as it probably won't hold its own weight like the metal mesh will - you will have to secure it at many more points. Once your base layer has adhered, it should be fine.

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If you use plywood or MDF instead of sheetrock you can use as many staples as it takes to attach the metal lath sufficiently. (you may want to consider an air or electric powered stapler)

Sheetrock is the second worst construction material available (adobe is worse) if it's giving you grief use something better.

Sure it's flat that's because it comes out of a factory, it's cheap because all you're buying is dried mud wrapped in brown paper (adobe is dried mud not wrapped in paper).

MDF is brown paper all the way through, so superior to sheetrock :)

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  • But code requires minimum 5/8 thickness of a material that cannot catch fire, if I recall correctly.
    – mr blint
    Commented Jul 12, 2022 at 12:03

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