I need my boat nose-in so it fits in garage, this requires me to winch the boat in from the drive using the rear wall studs to support the winch. The Drive has a very slight incline, I estimate 1' rise along 20' run. total weight of trailer & boat is 4,000 lbs. I plan to secure the winch to a 6' x 6" x 1" piece of solid wood. I plan to screw the wood to 4 x studs in the wall.
Is there any risk to damaging the studs in this regard?
Edit # 1:7/8/2022 Thank you all for great advice. A couple of additional points to add:
- I have an upgraded front wheel on the trailer that not only raises & lowers the trailer onto the hitch of the truck, its primary role, it also has a hand crank with 2 gears, high & low, to manually turn the crank and move the trailer and steer the front wheel. This is how I'm currently getting the boat into the garage successfully, I reverse the trailer onto the driveway sideways on a 45 deg angle, I then chock the wheels & disconnect the hitch and move the truck away, I then use the low gear hand crank to move and steer the trailer up the incline driveway, its not too hard to do.
The biggest problem is there is a 1.5" step between driveway and garage that is impossible to overcome with the crank so I built 1/4" hardboard x 6 "steps", ie a ramp and this works. I ramp in the front trailer wheel, I then ramp in one of the main trailer wheels on 45 deg angle so the 2nd wheel is not near the step as I can only pull 1 wheel at a time on the ramp, I then place a 2"x8"x6' block of wood ( same height as the 1.5" step on the driveway and reverse roll the 1st wheel out of garage by 5 feet onto the block of wood which is the same height as the garage floor so its easy to roll back in. then I move the ramp to the 2nd wheel and crank that in.
It works well... but... it's a lot of hard work which after a full day on the boat is not easy and I tend to not do it that day, leaving the boat on my drive overnight which is a HOA violation., hence the idea to use a winch, it would be a whole lot easier & quicker.
the boat & trailer was 2" too big to fit in the garage so I punched out the sheetrock between two studs to buy an extra 4" without touching the studs as the width of the nose of the trailer and boat is less than the distance between 2 studs. Works great except I cant reverse the trailer fully in using my truck as naturally this would be rear end first and the rear end is 4' wide meaning I'd have to cut the studs and put a header beam to form a goal post setup. This might be an option but I'd rather not touch the studs, its a brand new house.
I do agree the studs are designed to carry vertical weight, not designed for horizontal pull but my logic is if the hand crank and ramp can do it then a shared load across 4 studs should also suffice but yes, I don't want to risk damaging the wall. I could use more studs to spread the load more.
The winch is a 2000lbs winch with a plate at the bottom. I could secure this to the concrete slab but my thinking was the 4 x studs option is less damage to the garage than drilling holes in the slab. But i'm open to drilling into the slab. I'll need some guidance here on what type of bolts.
taking the trailer out of the garage is easy, I do use chocks, the hand crank allows me to control the process and I live on a quiet cul de sac so I can easily & safely get the boat onto the road and hitched to the truck.
Edit 1 summery:
so the choice is:
- do nothing, keep the hand crank process
- use winch and spread the load over more studs
- secure winch to slab
- remove studs and add a header so I can reverse the whole thing all the way in.
EDIT 2 Wall appears to be non load bearing, its a single story home, the joists in the attic run parallel to the inside garage wall so maybe removing the studs and putting a header is the best plan ?
Edit 3: New idea Im now thinking reverse boat into garage, then jack up trailer, put dollys under the 3 wheels, spin the boat manually to put nose first. Question is can I manually spin a 4000 lbs trailer on 3 dollys.