My curved door arm pulled out of the steel bar it was secured to.

Ripped aluminum

I repaired the door by pre-drilling the steel bar roughly 3/4" below the damage and reinstalled the two bolts that ripped out.

This changed the angle of the curved door arm ever so slightly:

Re-installed door arm

After repairing the door and before opening it again, I cleaned and lubricated both tracks as well as the rollers. The door now opens and closes properly and it sounds much better, so I'm assuming that the cleaning and lube helped.

I have two questions:

  1. Is moving the door arm down 3/4 of an inch to solid metal an acceptable fix?
  2. The bracket that secures the door arm to the steel beam allows for two additional bolts, one on each side. Should this bracket be secured with 4 bolts?

3 Answers 3


Moving the arm down is an acceptable fix. Make sure you adjust the "down" force so the door lightly settles against the concrete floor instead of slamming down on it.

Since you've got extra holes, I'd use them since you've already had screws rip out. You could remove that horizontal brace at the top and fit a piece of wood in the aluminum channel for additional strength and screw into that. Remember to put the brace back.

I have fixed doors similar to this by drilling holes right through the entire door and installing carriage bolts and washers through the door.


Based on feedback that I received from several sources, I ended up installing an opener reinforcement bracket. This seemed like the most robust solution based on all the recommendations that I received, both on and off stack exchange.

enter image description here

  • That's a nice bit of hardware, but all force is still on just two screws. I'd consider adding a few more.
    – isherwood
    Commented Apr 26, 2022 at 12:55
  • @isherwood there are 2 screws at the bottom, one about 3/4 of the way up, and, if it's anything like the bracket on my (slightly bent top panel) one above the connection arm that we can't see in this picture. I've had one of these installed for several years and it's been working just fine.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Apr 26, 2022 at 13:06
  • 1
    @isherwood, there are actually 5 screws. Two at the bottom over the hinge, one under where the curved door arm attaches to the bracket, one above where the arm attached to the backet, and another one above/through the horizontal beam that you can't see in the picture.
    – James Hill
    Commented Apr 26, 2022 at 13:17
  • You might want to revise your question because your "answer" doesn't answer your two questions.
    – JACK
    Commented Apr 26, 2022 at 16:44

Moving the bracket is a good solution. You just need to maintain adequate horizontal force against the door frame to get a good seal. If you drop too far you lose that and the top panel may flap in the wind. Moving up may be better, depending on the original position.

But if you'd like more position options and a more robust fix, drop in some two-by. It'll hold better in freezing climates and spreads the stress to several areas.

I ran six 2½" screws through a 2x4 from the face and two from the top and bottom, through the steel rails. If you don't have self-drilling screws you'll need to pilot through the metal.

enter image description here

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