3

I mounted a Rogue P4 Pull up bar system on my wall. I used 6 x 1/2" x 4.5" inch lag screws to fix each post to the wall. I did my best to make each post leveled. However, in the end, one of the posts is barely mounted too high, maybe 1/4 of an inch taller than the other post. I can feel the height difference when doing a pull-up.

If it's safe, I would like to lower the post slightly. However, I am concerned that re-drilling the pilot holes slightly below the existing ones will weaken the bolts ability to bite into the stud. Is there a way to safely remount the post 1/4" lower with the existing holes adjacent to the new lag screw positions? I appreciate the help.

I'm buying a laser level of some sort for future projects.

3
  • 2
    Or be lazy and switch equally between facing in and facing out. Apr 17 at 15:06
  • 1
    @AloysiusDefenestrate or give the stronger arm the greater distance :)
    – Solar Mike
    Apr 17 at 15:15
  • A regular bubble level would be more than sufficient for this. You can even use a weight, a string line, and anything with a right-angle.
    – Criggie
    Apr 17 at 22:26

2 Answers 2

6

I would drill out the holes to a larger diameter like 3/4" , then glue in some hardwood dowel.

Next re-drill the pilot holes higher on one side and lower the other to "share" the difference.

You can make a simple level using clear plastic tube and colored water - will get you much closer than you were and a lot cheaper than a laser....

3
  • Thanks for the help! Apr 17 at 15:02
  • Why would you drill out the holes to be 3/4"? Couldn't I take out the lag screws and glue in 1/2 inch wooden dowels? Thank again! Apr 17 at 15:09
  • "like 3/4" means it was a suggestion, unlike "must be 3/4" " You can do what you wish, even fill the holes and move as the other answer suggests. But if that is the comfortable height then that may be a shame.
    – Solar Mike
    Apr 17 at 15:12
6

Move the whole thing up or down the wall a few inches to completely avoid the old holes.

Laser levels are nice, but a good one that you can see with the lights on is expensive. A simple bubble level will work just fine to ensure this is level, it just needs to be long enough to span whatever it is that you're mounting. Get the bubble nice & level, draw a line on the wall in each mounting place and use that.

Once you've got the first side mounted, get the level back out and align the second side to the first, just in case it was slightly off.

5
  • 1
    Why would a level need to be long enough to span? A 6" level will do just the same, using the bar as an extension.
    – Tim
    Apr 18 at 11:16
  • 1
    Because, especially when doing the job alone, having the level able to hold up both ends of the thing being installed gives you one hand free to mark with your pencil.
    – FreeMan
    Apr 18 at 11:29
  • 2
    I've always fixed one side first, which obviates needing an extra hand. Rest the bar on that fixing. Imagine fixing such as a 10' curtain rail - you're saying go get a 10' level..?
    – Tim
    Apr 18 at 11:33
  • 3
    In this case I'd probably use a 6" or 8" level, but a builder's level of 36" or 1m is a useful thing to have in a DIY toolkit (far more useful than a laser level for most projects)
    – Chris H
    Apr 18 at 15:48
  • You could use any spare piece of lumber (or any other long, straight object - a yardstick/meterstick, etc.), rest it on both sides of the thing you're mounting and rest the level on top of that. Alternatively, hang the level in the middle of a piece of string (some levels have mounting clips for exactly this purpose), hold the string taut at both ends. (You can even tape it down to do that hands-free.) Apr 18 at 18:02

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service, privacy policy and cookie policy

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.