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I am in the process of covering over a textured ceiling with new 1/2" sheetrock and then installing a coffered ceiling/crown molding detail throughout the room.

The ceiling has prefab trusses spaced at 24" on center. I installed the sheetrock by screwing through the old sheetrock into the trusses and have found that the one side of the room where the wall meets the ceiling is 3/4" higher than the rest of the ceiling. This might not be a big deal if I was just sheetrocking and walking away but the 3/4" difference will be problematic when installing the beams and crown.

I released the screws on the edge and the nearest truss 24" over and got the sheetrock to hang level but I feel it will sag over time with no way to secure it to something solid. I can run a ledger under the sheetrock to support the edge which will be hidden behind the crown molding but still worry with the nearest support being so far over that the sheetrock will sag over time. I tried screwing the new rock into the old rock but the screw did not pull into the paper far enough for me to spackle over.

Does anyone have any suggestions on securing the sheetrock?

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    Shim it with 1x3 stock. Also known as a strapped ceiling. Apr 14, 2022 at 15:28

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Use long (2"+) drywall screws through the new drywall, the old drywall and into the truss.

By using long screws, you can have the drywall hang flat, but still be supported. This will leave the gap above the new drywall and leave you a nice flat surface below. If you feel it's necessary, add extra screws to support it, but don't forget that the drywall is hanging off the screw heads everywhere else and you're not worried about sagging or falling, so there's no reason to worry about it here.

You should already have dimples in the new drywall from when you screwed it up tightly, so the heads should sit in those to get mudded over.

An alternative would be to put 1x strapping (3/4" actual size) along the wall where the 3/4" gap is. This way, you can screw the edge firmly against the wood. Run a slightly thinner piece of strapping along where the crown molding will get nailed to the ceiling to give those nails something to bit into and to prevent the crown from pushing the drywall up.

You could run an additional piece of strapping (ripped, sanded or planed to 3/8" thickness) about half-way from the wall to where the dip ends and run more screws through this for some extra support.

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If you have space behind your trim that you will install around the ceiling/wall perimeter then screw a 1x2 to the wall and allow the drywall to float on your 1x2 with no fastener installed in the ceiling drywall at the ceiling/wall intersection. Truss manufacturers suggest that your drywall is not to be installed with a fastener, along this joint, to allow for the expansion and contraction of the camber that is designed into your trusses. If you are installing new drywall on the walls you can eliminate the 1x2 on the walls and allow the drywall on the wall to act as the 1x2 in that location. Building inspectors will approve of this approach. Then as your trusses expand and contract, that wall/ceiling joint will never develop a crack. Be sure to place your first screw in the ceiling sheetrock not any closer than 16" from that wall/ceiling corner.

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