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I need to install my new Glacier Bay Sadira kitchen faucet in my old 1972 mobile home. Before I begin wrenching, I've visually noticed (I think) that the new faucet's attached braided hoses are a 3/8", & if I'm correct, I believe that the old copper water supply lines coming into the under-sink cabinet, is a 1/2". Of course there are no shut-off valves in this mix, that'd be much too easy!

So, my question is this, what is the easiest, simplest, & cheapest way to get these braided lines connected to the copper piping? Just a guess, but I'm assuming that I would need an adapter of some sort that's 3/8" on one end, & 1/2" on the other. Is there a simple Sharkbite adapter for this purpose, or is there a better way that is fool-proof, without installing valves, I'm definitely not ready for that project as of yet? Any, & all help would really be a lifesaver at this point, thanks to all who responds! ARIZONA SUE

Here's the pictures..m

End of faucet line

Connection to copper pipes

2 Answers 2

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My ideas on what fittings you have in your current setup and what to remove for installation of your new faucet:

BIG CAVEAT - I am just a DIYer, not a plumber. I could be wrong in part or all of this analysis.

What you have

annotated version of OP's photo

The connection in back seems to be 1/2" threaded water supply with gray (plastic?) tee fitting allowing a plastic hose to split off to side (perhaps for dishwasher?). The top connection (in green) on the gray plastic seems to be a standard 1/2" (?) threaded male end with a standard flexible faucet water supply hose connector threaded onto it.

The connection in front is harder to distinguish - more photos with better focus/details of the connection would help here. There seems to be a standard rigid copper faucet water supply line running upward, connected (in red area) with what looks like it could be a standard 3/8" compression connection. This would be a real metal compression connection, with rigid metal nut covering a metal ferrule compressed between the nut and threaded section.

The blue area right below that looks like it is part of the compression connection, but also threads onto the 1/2" (?) water supply pipe coming up from below. I believe the blue part is an adapter with 1/2" FIP threading on the bottom and a 3/8" compression connection on top.

What to remove - back connection:

First, shut off water to this connection (may require shutting off house). Open faucet tap to release residual water pressure at connection. Be ready for water to drain out of loosened connection.

This seems to be a standard supply hose connection. To remove, hold gray block below gently but securely in place (with appropriately-sized open ended or crescent wrench) and use another appropriately-sized wrench on the hex flats of the flexible hose connector to unscrew it. You do NOT want the gray fitting to turn relative to the incoming water pipe below it.

You should be left with a standard 1/2" MIP threaded connection to hook up as described in my main answer.

Possible gray block removal - back connection

Update: Apparently the gray block tee goes to a separate filtered water faucet, no longer desired.

Simply unscrewing the gray block from the lower water supply pipe should indeed leave a 1/2" threaded connection, suitable for new faucet connection as described in my other answer. It's a bit tricky, as you don't want to damage the lower incoming pipe. Use a pipe wrench (3 points of contact) or small strap wrench to hold the lower pipe from turning while you use an open-end or crescent wrench on the flat sides of the gray block to unscrew it.

What to remove - front connection:

First, shut off water to this connection (may require shutting off house). Open faucet tap to release residual water pressure at connection. Be ready for water to drain out of loosened connection.

The goal here is to unscrew/detach the part in red -- the upper rigid copper faucet supply pipe and the nut (and hidden ferrule inside) WITHOUT disturbing the part in blue -- the adapter.

To remove, hold blue adapter gently but securely in place (with appropriately-sized open ended or crescent wrench on its hex side flats) and use another appropriately-sized wrench on the hex flats of the smaller red compression nut above to unscrew it. You do NOT want the blue adapter to turn relative to the incoming water pipe below it.

You should be left with a standard 3/8" threaded male compression connector. The 3/8" compression female connector from your faucet's flexible supply hose should directly screw onto this. Remember, finger tight, then perhaps 1/4 turn further with a wrench, since there is a rubber washer inside to make the seal.

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  • Hi Armand, & thank you once again for the very valuable information you've provided. I definitely have a much better grasp on what needs to be done, but I have one remaining question. The gray box with the tee split-off, actually connects an old water filter faucet, which I want to remove. So, since I'm removing that filter system, I'm assuming that I would also remove this rear gray box, correct? If so, then that's where I would utilize what you showed in your first example, 1/2" MIP x 3/8" compression adapter, correct? Apr 12, 2022 at 20:32
  • OR... Armand, would I just leave the gray box on & cap-off the end where the water filter line is currently with something, & then put the 1/2" MIP x 3/8" compression adapter on top of the gray box? Apr 12, 2022 at 21:14
  • I updated this answer adding info about removing gray block. I you want to try a metal-to-metal seal (with teflon tape on threads), you can add the metal adapter directly on to the lower water pipe end, then just attach your faucet braided line end to that. Since you haven't made metal-to-metal seals before, I would suggest adding an extra very short 1/2" to 1/2" braided supply hose to the lower water pipe end, then attach the adapter and then your faucet braided hose on to the other end of that.
    – Armand
    Apr 12, 2022 at 22:21
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Assuming that your existing water lines and faucet lines end in standard male threaded ends, a standard flexible faucet supply connector hose may fit the bill. (It would help a lot to post photos of your water and faucet ends).

Note: in re-reading your post, it seems you may instead have braided 3/8" female end supply lines pre-attached to the faucet that cannot be removed. If so, and to avoid having to make a metal on metal seal, see second option below.

Assuming male ends:

As you may already know, standard flexible stainless-braid-jacketed faucet water supply hoses are available at your plumbing/hardware/big box stores. They are available in different lengths, with different size combinations of female threaded connectors on the ends (for example 3/8 on one end and 1/2 on the other).

Just make sure the actual threaded male ends you are connecting match the hose ends -- I think we've all bought the wrong size at some time and had to go back and exchange for the right size. Photo below shows a typical 12" long line with 1/2" FIP (Female Iron Pipe threading) x 3/8" "compression" connector ends. Both these ends have rubber sealing washers inside, so you just tighten them hand-tight plus maybe 1/4 turn more with a wrench; tightening them too far makes them leak.

example braided supply line]

Looking up your Glacier Bay faucet online, it looks like it has a standard 3/8" male threaded connector which should fit a standard "3/8 compression" female connector end.

Assuming Faucet With Pre-Attached 3/8" Female Supply Ends:

To avoid having to make a potentially difficult metal on metal seal at your 1/2" water pipe end, I would install 2 items for each line:

  1. A short (12" or less) flexible stainless steel braided supply hose like that above, but with 1/2" FIP connectors on both ends (with rubber sealing washers inside). Connect one end to your 1/2" water supply pipe.
  2. Connect the other 1/2" FIP end to a "3/8 in. MIP and 1/2 in. MIP Brass Water Supply Adapter". Connect the 3/8" end of the adapter to your 3/8" female braided hose end from the faucet.

Example of 1/2" MIP x 3/8" compression adapter; remove and discard nut and ferrule from top section in order to attach braided hose end.

1/2" to 3/8" water supply adapter

Adding An Inline Shutoff Valve In The Future:

For a future project, if the incoming water pipe end is a standard 1/2" MIP (Male Iron Pipe standard), you can just attach a new inline shutoff valve that has 1/2" FIP inlet and 1/2" MIP outlet. Attaching such a shutoff valve to the 1/2" water pipe threaded end will require teflon tape on the threads, a pipe wrench to hold the pipe end so it doesn't turn, and a 2nd wrench to tighten the valve fitting on the pipe. Since that will be a metal-to-metal thread seal, you will probably need to tighten it quite hard to prevent leaking.

Example photo below: (1/2" FIP inlet x 1/2" MIP outlet shutoff valve)

enter image description here

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  • Hi Armand, thanks SO much for your help, I really appreciate it! I added some pictures of what I'm dealing with so if you wouldn't mind taking a look & advising me.... Thanks again! Apr 11, 2022 at 2:05

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