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A plumber was snaking a clogged kitchen pipe when the pipe behind my cabinets was dislodged. The only way we could think of reattaching it was to cut out a portion of the cabinet so he could access the pipe.

Now we have this cut out piece and I’m trying to find the most elegant way to reattach it.

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He had recommended to do a plywall support and drill the cut piece to it, similar to patching a larger drywall hole. I wasn’t a fan due to using visible screws but at this point open to any ideas.

How should I reattach it?

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    +1 to @Ecnerwal ... for a neater look, attach a frame to the "door" so that it covers the cut
    – jsotola
    Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 0:50
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    And if you make it a door, the next time there is a pipe problem you'll have it easy. Which probably means you'll never have a pipe problem (at least not in the same place), which wouldn't be so bad either. Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 1:03
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    Screw heads inside a cabinet are not really visible so just put them in and forget them. You might need to open that area again so consider it an access port. Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 1:05
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    @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact "Which probably means you'll never have a pipe problem", exactly! Same reason I leave a cleanout under the sink, in addition to the one required by code which often ends up behind a cabinet. When they're conveniently placed I can be assured I'll never need them!
    – P2000
    Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 5:37
  • Since it's a perfect fit minus the blade thickness I suppose you could simply glue it in place with almost any glue out there, including silicone or wood glue? Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 14:22

3 Answers 3

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If you don't want visible screws, you could start with a similar process to patching drywall and screw in some some support boards on the back. Then, because it is wood, instead of screwing the cut-out piece back on, use wood glue to attach the cutout to the support boards and to fill in the gaps along the sides. Wood glue should be strong enough to hold the piece in place as long as it's not getting banged around, and can be sanded down and painted over if aesthetics are important.

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I would just put some ply, or a brace, across each of the corners in that hole, attach with screws or glue.

Then you can screw the panel using the four corners, this should also be strong enough to support any shelf that may be secured from that panel.

It also means that it can be easily removed if necessary.

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  • I think this is the best solution because considering the removed piece includes the holes for the shelf support, you have to re-use it, it has to be strong and it has to be well aligned with its original position to correctly replace the shelf. A slightly easier approach than "across the corners" is to put vertical strips up against the hole and behind it, screwed at the top and the bottom. Only four screws and for strength they can rest on the floor.
    – jay613
    Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 10:49
  • I agree that screwing it onto bracing on the back is the best way to go, even though the OP stated that it he's "not a fan" of the idea.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 11:40
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Don't want screws? Want it removable , in case it happens again? Cut a board the inside height of the cabinet, less 25mm || 1" Finish it on all four edges.

Use these clever little doo-dads, or similar https://striplox.com/

Chase out the adj shelf by the 16mm || 3/4" of your new removable panel, so it fits, but still sits on the shelf pins at the front.

The 25mm in height (more-or-less, depending on doo-dad selection) is your activation distance in height.

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    How about including a picture (or at least a description) of one of these "clever little doo-dads", so we can see if we're interested in visiting the site. Otherwise, it appears that this could just be spam. Plus, this is, essentially, now a link-only answer, since it relies on something on a web site that could disappear at any moment.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Mar 30, 2022 at 11:29

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