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I am modifying a few power strips to use a Neutrik powerCON TRUE1 TOP Appliance Inlet Connector rather than the normal NEMA 5-15P plug. The powerCON connector has these little metal tabs:

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The power strip has stranded wire. What is the best way to join stranded wire to these metal tabs? "best" in this case is defined as secure with the least amount of resistance compared to other methods.

I've been told it is against NEC code to solder connections because solder reduces the resistance compared to a wire nut. (NEC doesn't matter in this case because this isn't household wiring, this is a fancy extension cord, but even so why not take this as an opportunity to do things to the best of my abilities).

The only other method I am aware of would be crimping the wire with a female quick disconnect but I am open to all alternatives.

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    I would go with a crimp-on quick disconnect. Having recently repaired some XLR and mic cables, I'd be tempted to put the stranded wire through the hole in the lug, wrap it around the lug, then solder. However, that was a decidedly low voltage project and this isn't, so it's likely not applicable.
    – FreeMan
    Mar 28, 2022 at 16:04
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    why would reduced resistance be a bad thing? ... are you certain that you heard it correctly?
    – jsotola
    Mar 28, 2022 at 16:05
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    The "reduced resistance" reference is nonsense. It would be against NEC (if NEC applied) because soldering to those tabs is not the way the manufacturer intended for them to be used - and therefore would not be covered by the UL (CSA/TUV/ETL/etc) listing.
    – brhans
    Mar 28, 2022 at 16:36
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    Is the width of the blade 3/16 or 1/4 or 5/16 inches right on the button? That is for spade terminals. Mar 28, 2022 at 18:15
  • I hope you are NOT thinking about applying power to that plug it would be referred as an inlet not an outlet. The fact that live terminals could be touched would violate electrical code.
    – Ed Beal
    Mar 28, 2022 at 19:23

2 Answers 2

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Correctly sized (for the wire gauge as well as the male spade) crimp-on female spade connectors. Preferably the insulated type, but if the mechanical design is such that other wires cannot come in contact with them not strictly needed. Crimped on with the correct crimp tool, not just smashed flat with Vise-Grips® or the like.

Solder is (with some very limited exceptions) not loved by NEC mostly because under certain fault conditions it can melt ("low resistance" is not the problem, at least not low electrical resistance.) It can also cause stranded wire to break more easily by solidifying a section around the solder joint so that movement is quite abrupt and abusive to the wire strands where the solder that has wicked up the wire ends. A "dry crimp" is not subject to that problem.

Insulated female spade connector image from Mouser.com - no endorsement implied.

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According to the instructions

If you are installing equipment, then NEC 110.3 applies and says exactly that. If you are modifying or building equipment, then the UL White Book applies, and that is best done with RU-Recognized components, because those have already passed UL inspection as components, provided they are used in the conditions under which they were approved. Which is discussed in the data sheet.

It lists "1/4” Faston" which seem to be this.

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