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I've bought this IKEA wall cabinet which should be drilled into the wall. In my case I need it to "sit" on the floor instead of hanging it. More importantly, the room has tiles and I can't drill since it's a rented apartment. The cabinet is not stable on the floor and needs to be stabilized somehow (see image at the end of the post)

Additionally the back of the cabinet is deeper than the edges as seen in the following image. Therefore only the edges can be glued.

Back of wall cabinet

I've tried to use a strong double tape around the edges but it wasn't successful. I've now tried to put some 3m stickers at the edges and while it seems stable, I am fearing that there might be some damage if it falls while opening the door. I have asked at a home improvement shop but there was no satisfying solution.

I am wondering if there is some strong reliable glue that can be easily removed (e.g. with heat) or any alternative suggestions. Thank you!

wall cabinet picture

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  • If the wall was drywall, I'd tell you to ignore the rules and patch the holes when you leave. But that won't work for tile.
    – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
    Feb 13, 2022 at 13:44
  • Being a rental plus the tiles not much you can do. Attaching large legs/stabilizers to the cabinet probably just be a tripping hazard/space problem. Would ask landlord/maintenance for any ideas or get another better cabinet.
    – crip659
    Feb 13, 2022 at 15:37
  • can you drive two small #1 screws sideways into the door jamb? That's easily patched. If pre-drilled, there will be no crater. Add a small spacer if yo have to. Additionally I'd use caulk, at least on the opposite top corner, as proposed in the answers.
    – P2000
    Feb 13, 2022 at 19:23

2 Answers 2

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Wedges/shims as needed to get the bottom stable on the floor, with a bit of "lean-back" into the wall.

Heavy things that are not removed on the bottom shelf since the door is going to try to tip it over.

Otherwise, choose something more suitable for use in an apartment where you can't drill the walls.

I'm exceedingly dubious about glue, particularly given that the glue needs to not damage the walls and be removable.

You could possibly attach a larger board to the bottom of the bottom shelf extending forward of the cabinet to help offset the "door opening tip-over force" by leverage as opposed to purely by weight in the cabinet.

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It's possible to do it with adhesive, but it has to be the right one, for example MSP118 or silicone caulk.

You can put a bead on the back of the side planks, top side, about 10cm long:

enter image description here

Then squish it against the wall and don't move it for 24 hours. Don't press too hard, and make sure the caulk ends up only on tiles and not in the joints.

To remove it when you leave, cut the caulk bead. If you have thin steel wire, that works best (using nails as handles), but a box cutter also works fine. That's why it's important to not press the furniture too hard against the wall when installing. If you do, that will completely squeeze out the caulk, and there won't be enough thickness of caulk to pass the blade through.

Then remove the caulk from the tiles with a scraper. It is much easier if there was no caulk in the joints.

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