How do I attach this electrical box to the wall?

Question

Based on the UPC code on the sticker, I have Raco 528 switch box that's been sitting in my spare electrical parts drawer for... ages...

It appears to have holes in the side through which I could drive nails or screws to hold it to the wall, but it doesn't come with nails or screws. Having only used plastic new-work boxes (that come with nails when you buy 'em) and metal boxes in old work, I'm not really sure how to attach it to the wall. There doesn't seem to be anything specified at the Hubbell web site (linked above) about how to attach it, so I'm sure this is just "common knowledge" for those who do it on a regular basis. I am, however at a minor loss at the moment.

Do I simply grab any pair of nails or screws and attach it to the wall, or are there special screws/nails I should use?

Since these boxes can be disassembled and made into gangs, I thought I could screw/nail one single side to the stud, then assemble the rest of the box to that side. Alternatively I could get longer screws/nails and run them through both sides of the box (this seems easier in the long run).

Is there any code reason not to use a long screw from the left side of the box, thorough the box, and out the other side to mount it to a stud on the right? I can see the possibility that the screw threads could damage the wire insulation...

Since we're at the "pouring rain prior to the next snowpocolypse" stage of weather, I'm not really looking forward to heading out to pick up something special, but will if I need to.

Answer 1

Just because you have a box doesn't mean you should use it. Sometimes boxes are specialty and not for general use. This particular one is a modular box designed to be taken apart and stacked to offer multiple "gangs". I would not use it except where the multi-gang ability was useful.

The building industry cares about one thing: assembly speed. The plastic boxes you are accustomed to are designed for very rapid installation when trying to wire 2 houses a day. The experienced installer goes Bap! Bap! Next! So they build mounting methods into them.

Further, plastic boxes are flimsy and just don't have the structural strength to be supported via arbitrary or improvised methods. They must be reinforced to be supported the one way they are designed.

Metal boxes are for higher quality work, which is often fairly custom. Versatility is prized over speed. (though you can get quickie metal box variants).

I don't know if I'd do it with this modular box, but welded or drawn metal boxes are plenty strong so you can improvise your own mounting scheme. Drill extra holes where you need them, put screws in where you please. That's what you're expected to do. Use your own screws.

And I like screws, because metal boxes (especially with metal conduit) are very durable and reusable. (have fun getting a nailed plastic box off a wall intact). Also, I like Torx head screws, which means with a side ratchet screwdriver, it's super easy to reach into the box and drive down a 1-1/4" long #8 deck screw.

But why even use junction boxes in the first place? Why not just have wire-nuts flapping in the breeze? Reasons. Many reasons. When you look at those reasons, metal boxes are superior for every one.

I don't even use plastic. My go-to is the 1-gang "Handy-Box" or 4x4 metal box with knockouts, and I just stick Romex cable clamps into the knockouts if I'm not using metal conduit.

For a 1-gang opening with plenty of cubic inches, I would go for a 4x4 box with a 1-gang mud ring the thickness of the drywall.

Remember every metal box has a hole tapped #10-32 for a ground screw. Every cable entering the box must be pigtailed to that ground screw. Upside: switches will pick up their grounding automagically, and so will any receptacle marked "Self-grounding". This is actually neater, since you get to push all the grounds into the back of the box and forget about them - no need bringing ground to a device.

Answer 2

As far as I know (I've only installed a few similar boxes, and have one sitting on my basement floor for me to get around to it...) any screws/nails that will securely fasten it to studs/joists/walls/etc. I highly recommend screws rather than nails because it is a lot easier to get a screw out from inside a box if you need to move or replace it than it is to get a nail out (sometimes that means pry the box off with the nails inside, which can be a little destructive).

Answer 3

If I understand the question correctly, I am sure you could not attach this with a long screw that went all the way through both sides, thereby obstructing the interior of the box.

You would hold a 1" or 3/4" screw in the hole at bottom and top and drive it with a screwdriver going through the hole on the opposite side. A Phillips screwdriver should fit through the hole on the opposite side. Maybe a small right angle ratchet would work.

Since you want to mount the box to a stud on its right, you would have to be able to use a screwdriver with your left hand. A manual ratchet screwdriver would be a big help or an electric driver with a long, small diameter driver.

EDIT

The OP's idea, expressed in a comment, is surely what to do: remove the side of the Raco 528 box and screw it to the stud, then reassemble. The side comes off and girs back on easily and quickly by loosening a screw.

Answer 4

If you're not going to gang it, which would make getting a driver in at an angle a no brainer, then it's a smold work box and you need to make it work by drilling some holes in it closer to the front. Don't forget that this box includes a mud ring and needs to be proud of the wall the thickness of your drywall.

IIRC there's a Q about what screws for mounting boxes and the answer was "in a workmanship like fashion". I use exterior screws for everything. Combination Square Drive Phillips (fake) Deck Mates (because they only sell the stupid Star Drive now).