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I am installing two 3ft shed doors into a 6ft opening. I have some pressure treated 1x6s to make the door jambs.

  • I cut the door jamb header to run across the 6ft length and screwed to the door framing above.
  • I then cut the door jamb sides and screws those to the sides of the door framing.

Then I got to thinking maybe the door jambs should but against the sides of the top jamb so it reduces the spreading of the jamb from the heavy shed doors (made from solid 1x6s).

What is the correct setup for this? Does the door jamb head provide any lateral structure support for the side jambs hence should go between the door jamb sides?

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    A picture of what you have, and what you have in mind for a finished product would be really good
    – Jack
    Commented Jan 25, 2022 at 0:54

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Either way works. Interior doors have the head set between the side jambs as well, but are contained in a dado.

You can take advantage of butting the side jambs on either side of the head to have something to drive shims tight against. It will work very well.

Typically when I hang doors I usually set a long screw through the hinge through the jamb. This transfers the pull of the door all the way to the framing. In your case, since the doors will be very heavy, depending on the type of hinges you are planning on using that would be good too. If you are using surface mounted hinges, it is not so critical because the screws may go through the siding and the framing, the forces on the screws are different and not as reliant on the framing.

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  • So if you have a rough opening of 72inches do you cut your dimensions short on the width intentionally to force yourself to shimming? Or do you ever just bud against the framing as is and measure perfectly?
    – Qiuzman
    Commented Jan 25, 2022 at 0:38
  • I do not know the design you have in mind, as in trim details, siding, door construction, etc. I can only answer generically. At first I didn't realize you RO was already at 72". About the opening you have now, are the sides very plumb where you will need shim space? Next thought. Are the doors ready made or site built? Next, Do you really need a jamb? Surface mount hinges do not need a jamb to do their job, but if you are using butt hinges, that is different.
    – Jack
    Commented Jan 25, 2022 at 0:50
  • The shed has t1-11 siding panels over 2x4 frame. The door I used a router and panel bit and got the siding flush white the 2x4 but some edges were not great from originally trying with a reciprocating saw lol. Well the shed will have exterior 3/4in x 3.5” trim around the door way so I thought I’d do the door jamb so the trim will sit flush with jamb and have a clean edge and the 2x4 framing lumber then will never be exposed to any outdoor conditions if wet since the door jamb is pressure treated and I was going to caulk around it despite the trim will cover. Not sure how plumb is plumb.
    – Qiuzman
    Commented Jan 25, 2022 at 1:38
  • Holding a 4ft level against the framing the bubble does fall within the guide lines but not perfectly in the center so I assume I need to shim? Doors are not built yet. Was going to make them tomorrow as I have the wood ready. Haven’t picked the hinges yet but want them to be exposed on the front of the doors for that barn style look but mounted to inside jam.
    – Qiuzman
    Commented Jan 25, 2022 at 1:39
  • Since the doors are site built, you best bet will be to use surface mount hinges. You will not need a jamb for that. You can run the trim around both the perimeter of the doors and opening, keeping all surfaces in plane.... trim, siding, framing, on both doors and shed. This will also allow you to not need to get the cut around the door dead on. The trim will cover any minor, perhaps even major discrepancies. The only thing I would do regarding the screws for the hinge is that the stock screws that come with it may not be as long as they should be. The other thing is building the shed door so
    – Jack
    Commented Jan 25, 2022 at 1:52

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