Tldr: I want to 3 way connect an electrical wire and I don’t know what’s the best connection solution. I don’t know if I’m missing some vocabulary or why I can’t find an easy solution for this online. Insulate brass connectors only take 2 wires.

I have 7 gu10 220v lamps. It used to be 12v (I’m changing from 12v with transformers to 220v without) with transformer each. And each transformer would take 220v in and have a socket for 220v out. So it creates a nice parallel connection for each lamp with 6 short 220v wires in between each lamp. Now I just want replace the transformers with normal gu10 connectors. But I need to pass the voltage to next lamp etc etc. iow I just want to split live and neutral off to each lamp connector. I.e. a three way connector: take one 220v in connect it to the next 220v wire AND the led. I see some clicky ones online but I would have thought that you can use those boxy plastic insulate brass connectors (choco strip) with the little screws where all ports are connected to each other and not just the two ports across (is this called mono pole?). It really doesn’t work well to put two wires into a single hole of those connectors, they always pull out. I would have thought drawing power in parallel off an electric wire is more common with many different solutions and connectors. (Of course thats what a multiplug is for)

The 220v cable that is already installed is a thick clumsy-to-work with solid core. Like this: XVB-F2 3G 1.5mm Thanks for reading if you got this far

  • 1
    I'm going to guess that you're referring to these "Choc-Strip" type of screw-terminal connector. It's perfectly valid to put 2 wires under one screw - so if they're pulling out then you're doing something wrong. Can you take a pic and edit your question to show us what you're doing?
    – brhans
    Jan 7, 2022 at 16:02
  • I'm really confused. You've either got GU10 lamp bases that take 220v (most likely AC) or they take 12v (most likely DC). Please edit your post to include clear, focused pictures of all the parts in question, including any labeling on the wiring, transformer and lamp bases.
    – FreeMan
    Jan 7, 2022 at 16:10
  • @FreeMan I think that OP is converting a system of formerly 12V halogen bulbs to 220V bulbs by getting rid of the transformers.
    – TooTea
    Jan 7, 2022 at 16:17
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    That's a possibility, @TooTea, but, IMHO, it could be a bad idea, as a 12v lamp base may not have the proper insulation to safely handle 220v (maybe 240v?) AC power. We'll have to wait and see if we get a response. OP can simply click "Join This Community" to get an account with the same name, pwd, and other account info so he can comment and/or edit the question.
    – FreeMan
    Jan 7, 2022 at 16:51
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    ”where all ports are connected to each other” Sounds like you want Wago connectors. They are available in different numbers of ports and different cable sizes so make sure you buy ones suitable for 1,5 mm² cable. As all of the ports on a single Wago connector are connected together you'll need 3 connectors to join phase, neutral and earth at each point.
    – Graham Nye
    Jan 7, 2022 at 17:35

1 Answer 1


Thanks for all the replies, this forum is awesome! The solution I ended up with was the wago-type push-in connectors.

For me, they worked easily and best with solid core wires (my existing cabling is 1.5mm^2) Because I'm lazy and don't want to solder, I connected the stranded wire for the LED connectors with a choco-box to the solid core ones that are connected to the push-in connectors. (the links don't necessarily match the sizes that I got. Just the format).

I have no experience with the twist-on wire connectors. So I didn't take that route.

Considering the ease of use, I'll for sure use push-in connectors in future again. Regarding the warnings of 220V and arching, I decided in the end to remain on 12V. I had an flickering issue with the 12V which made me want to move to GU10 220 but I don't have enough space between false ceiling and real ceiling to put proper GU10's inside. So I'll remain on the shorter MR16's for now.

My issue with the flickering was that the LEDs take much lower current than the original halogens so I managed to connect all 7 on a single transformer. My SEVEN transformers are all rated for 20-70watts, 12V. So with LEDs I only needed one.

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