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I have replaced a standard switch in my dining room with a Kasa smart switch which I recently bought. There was 3 neutral(white) wires existed already and I have bundled them with the neutral wire on the switch. I have also bundled other wires including load/line and ground wires following the instructions.

After the installation, the switch works fine(turns on/off) but when it is in off state, another outlet in the same room turns off as well.

Any DIY fixes I can try before I hire an electrician?

Here's is a picture of the current state.

enter image description here

Thanks!

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  • This outlet was not previously controlled by the light switch you replaced? Please include photos of the wiring behind the outlet and wiring behind the new switch (and the old switch, if you took one). Pull the outlet and switches out but do not disconnect the wires from them. Dec 13, 2021 at 18:51
  • Hello Frediec, it was previously controlled by the old standard light switch. Unfortunately I didn't take a photo prior to the installation.
    – Allan
    Dec 13, 2021 at 19:54
  • Are both receptacles in the outlet controlled by the switch, or just one?
    – Mark
    Dec 13, 2021 at 20:39
  • I assume receptacles are the slots on the outlet. There's 2 and both of them are controlled by the switch I installed.
    – Allan
    Dec 14, 2021 at 2:58

1 Answer 1

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My hunch is a problem with hot line vs switched hot load. On the old switch it didn't matter. Disconnect all line and load. Separate them carefully and turn breaker on and figure out (non contact tester) which one is hot. That goes to line along with all other hot/switched hot wires except for the one that is for the actual switched load, which goes to load of course.

Looking at the picture, it appears that Line and Load are "two wires next to each other" and not specifically labeled/designated wires. The implication is that the switch grabs power wherever it can, presumably by monitoring both wires since one of them will be hot, and when the switch is turned on, it creates a circuit between them. Which means that there is no one "right" configuration, unlike many other switches where a particular wire or screw must be connected to hot and a different wire or screw must be connected to switched hot. Actually most such switches will use a different color (typically red or blue) for the Load wire to make it clear, so seeing black for both wires confirms that Line and Load are "whatever".

From a logical perspective, there are only a few combinations of 3 wires and that limits what must be going on here (unless something is just plain wacky):

A & B are the two black wires from the switch. Doesn't matter which is which, so considering A as "connected to one other wire" and B as "connected to two other wires".

  • A = incoming hot, B = outgoing hot + switched hot - I believe that is what you have based on behavior of the switch)
  • A = switched hot, B = incoming hot + outgoing hot - that is what you want
  • A = outgoing hot, B = incoming hot + switched hot - that would have the originally switched receptacle always on and the other receptacle (that wasn't switched before) now responds to the switch

So by process of elimination, you must have the first configuration. So confirm that "A" is always hot, and assuming that is the case, move one of the "B" wires to connect with it. That should either work as desired or result in only the wrong receptacle switched, in which case swap it for the other one.

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  • WIll give a try thanks
    – Allan
    Dec 13, 2021 at 21:36
  • Hello, appreciate your time and detailed explanations. Will give you a try. Thank you!
    – Allan
    Dec 14, 2021 at 2:59

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