Perilex wall plug and multi switch configuration issues

Question

I am having a serious issue with my mechanical ventilation system.

I have replaced the old one and bought a new one from the same brand and with the connection (dammm Perilex!).

I thought that the device will work right away but not... thats where the problem started.

I have tried almost all the combinations on perilex plug (while keeping earth and neutral in place all the time) but couldn’t found a working(!) solution with my 3 way switch.

Finally I connected all the wires as mentioned on product manual to the plug.

The ventilator is not working on neither or the speeds dictated by the 3 way switch. I have then tried to measure the voltage on different switch positions.

Here is what I found ...

I was expecting some 0v in respective positions... i.e. 0V for L2, If we select Speed 1 (S1), or 0V for L1 If we select Speed 2 (S2)... but neither of them goes 0v as I always have some voltage on each.

May be thats the reason... may be switch is broken or I am missing a very fundamental point which might be all about how that is being setup in the electric box.

This is current connections of the plug (I couldn't take the fuse down as It cuts the lights .. at least for now. .. )

In summary I have one blue, one green, two black and one brown wires. I have tired make them all visible for everyone with arrows in colours.

Finally this is how my main electric box looks like. Number 8 is the fuse of that plug (as well as almost all the light sources, plugs in the kitchen and some more out power outlets).

I was expecting a bit different fuse (combined one or so...) as I believe (not sure anything anymore though) that is 3 phase

What do you think ?

The ventilation system is working ... it is not broken .. as the dealer checked it again ..

by the these are the inputs on the board. and the supplied schematics from the manual.

And this is the current connection of the 3 way switch as well as the connection diagram from the manufacturer

I am more or less a handy guy and would like to fix this by my own but that kind of output is unique in Netherlands (where I moved), I have no experience on these and I am really exhausted.

Any help will be appreciated !

thank you

UPDATE : I started to see very strange behaviour... or I am getting mad. I have plugged the fan to the same outlet and observed that the fan starts to run .. increases the speed for 3-4 sec.. and stops .. then starts and stops. goes on and on .. ...

If I check the voltages (the switch is on highest setting) L1 is 232V stable, L2 is not stable and around 150s.. and L3 is 230 but gets lower and lower by the speed increases until 160V s where the fan stops. When the fan stops, It jumps to 220v-230v and gradually decreases as an opposite of the fan speed.

It is almost mid night in here.. may be something behaves different on the grid compare to day hours when I don't get 220-230v even for a moment. ...

Something weird is going on..

Answer 1

Don't be fooled by Perilex, this isn't 3-phase.

Unlike the 'Muricans, who seem to require a dozen or two of different plugs, one for each conceivable purpose, Dutch engineers have come up with the one plug to rule them all, the Perilex. Wisely realizing that there's plenty of situations that call for a mains-voltage grounded plug with more than two working contacts, they have found several different ways to wire a Perilex receptacle/plug:

• As a three-phase socket for motors (one neutral + all three phases), protected by a 3-phase breaker (krachtgroep)

• As a socket for two single-phase circuits for cooktopsw (two neutrals + two phase conductors), protected by a dual breaker (that fornuisgroep you have at the top left of your breaker panel). These two circuits can be fed from the same phase or from two different phases depending on the way your house is wired. The point is that the cooktop doesn't need to care.

• As a single-phase socket for central ventilation (one neutral + one phase + two control wires for selecting the speed), protected by an ordinary single breaker.

If you look at the wiring diagram in your question, there's a single "L" (phase) wire entering from the bottom, connected to the "L3" contact which supplies power to the ventilation system. "L1" and "L2" are just control signals telling the ventilation system on what speed to run.

Now, the confusing voltages you measured are due to the L1/L2 contacts being left disconnected (floating) when not in use. Your multimeter is likely just picking up stray voltage induced onto the floating wires. (Or flowing back from the ventilation system if you measured this with it connected.)

There's one 230 V entry in each L1 and L2 column, which shows that your speed selector switch is working properly (apart from the fact that it looks like the "L" and "M" speeds are swapped).

The trouble is likely in the connection of the L3 contact. That's supposed to provide 230 V to power the system, but it doesn't seem to be doing that. You'll need to investigate a bit to figure out what is going on here. If you have a contact voltage tester (one that has a small light in it that lights up when you touch a live wire), try that on L3. There might be a loose connection somewhere or some other issue.