I have a Generac automatic standby generator with a 8 circuit transfer switch.
I was wondering if because the neutral bars in the main breaker panel are directly connected to the neutral bar in the transfer switch subpanel, could I simply only connect the hot wire of the circuit to the transfer switch breaker, and leave the neutral in the main panel.
Only the hot lines are switched. The neutral lines are not switched. The main panel is hooked to the ground spike and all the grounds run through the main panel ground, and the neutral/ground bonding only happens in the main panel.
I was looking at connecting the circuits from the main breaker panel to the transfer switch sub panel. I was going to connect them by running the hot AND neutral wires for each circuit from the transfer switch to the main panel. Disconnecting the hot AND neutral lines from the breaker and neutral bar in the main panel, and using wire nuts to connect them to the wires to the transfer switch. Inside the transfer switch sub panel, the hot wires would be connected to the circuit breaker, and the neutral to the neutral bar. I would leave the ground wires connected to the ground bar in the main panel.
The neutral bar in the transfer switch sub panel, is connected to the generator neutral and to the neutral bar in the main panel. The ground/neutral bonding happens only in the main panel.
Or, do I have to move the neutral as well, even though the neutrals are all always connected to each other.
I couldn't find any answers that directly matched my question
It is a 8 circuit Generac transfer switch. Essentially, it is a normal 8 circuit breaker panel, but with an automatic transfer switch at the top. The 8 circuits that need to be backed up are all currently in the main panel. The directions have the neutral from the main panel hooked AND the neutral from the generator panel, hooked up to the neutral bar in the transfer switch panel. The neutrals from the main panel, sub panel, and generator, are always connected to each other.
So, I was wondering if I still needed to move the neutral wires from the bar in the main panel, to the one in the transfer switch panel. If the neutral bars are permanently connected, does it matter which bar their on
This page has all the stuff on the generator and the transfer switch https://www.generac.com/service-support/product-support-lookup/product-support-details?productid=024662fe-9257-449e-9290-86a521bf142d
There was a large storm recently and power was out for about 4 days, so I got it hooked up and running and an electrician checked it yesterday and said it was good.
Ok, so the generator cable is a 8/3 + 10/1 + 18/6 TC-ER-JP 600 Volt Direct Burial Power and Data Tray cable.
The circuit breaker was drywalled into the wall between studs, and at some point in the past some circuits were added that went through a couple bottom knockouts, and they sprayed foam insulation in the drywall hole. After ripping apart the drywall above it, I could access two of the top knockouts, fortunately, the main power cable comes in from the bottom knockout, so I still had access to the top knockout that can has rings so can do 1.0, 1.25,.1.5, or 2.0 inch depending on how many rings you remove after the center 1.0 inch circle is removed. I also had access to a 3/4 inch knockout on the top. I had no access to anything else.
That comes through the wall into a junction box because the cable he bought was about 5 feet too short. Inside the junction box the 8/3 is connected to three 8 gauge THHN wire, they were out of some gauges because of the storm and supply chain issues from covid, so I connected the 10/1 ground wire to 8 gauge THHN wire, and I connected the 16/6 wires to 14 gauge THHN wire. I also used 10 gauge THHN for connecting all the circuits. In the junction box I also connected a short 8 gauge wire to the nut connecting the grounding wires between the generator and the transfer switch, wrapped the copper end of the stub wire around the junction box grounding screw and screwed it in.
My understanding is that it is ok to use a thicker wire than the other wire in the run as long as the thinnest wire is rated for the maximum current going through the circuit and the breaker/fuse is sized for the weakest wire.
There was not enough room to maneuver solid conduit, and keep it within 24 inches for the 16 10 gauge THHN wires for the 8 backed up circuits.
I used 1 inch LFNC-B to connect the generator tray cable from the junction box to the transfer switch.
I used 1 inch LFNC-B just under 24 inches, to connect all 16 of the 10 gauge THHN wires for the 8 circuits
I used 3/4 inch LFNC-B to connect four 8 gauge THHN wires from the 50 amp double pole breaker in the main panel, to the transfer switch. The 2 hot wires, a neutral, and a ground.
On the individual THHN cables. To identity wires better.
I used black, red, white, and green colored wires for the 8 gauge wires used for the power and ground wires connecting both the generator tray cable on the junction box to the transfer switch, and the wires connecting the 50 amp double pole breaker in the main panel to the transfer switch.
For the 8 circuits moved to the transfer switch, I used black and white 10 gauge THHN wires. Black for live and white for neutral.
I put a label sticker from a label maker on each end of each individual THHN wire. The label on the wires for each of the 8 circuits, was just several rows of 11111111 to 88888888 on the blacks and the same on the whites. The 8 gauge colored wires for power, just are labeled Generator or Main Panel.
When moving a circuit, i used the same numbered black and white 10 gauge THHN wires. For example, for the 5th circuit I moved, I used the black wire with the label that had rows of 5s on it and the white wire with the 5s on it. To make it even easier on the future, I also wired each numbered black wire to that number circuit breaker in the transfer switch.