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I bought a second hand oven that seller claimed worked but needed the wiring to be fixed in the function selector switch. there is an attached picture of what the wiring looked like when i opened the oven.

wiring as i got it in oven

original wiring

newly wired according to my understanding

i've attached the image of the wiring diagram sticker on the back of the oven. there are a few icons I dont understand and it doesnt make sense to be that terminals g,e are both empty. where is the switch getting live from?

in order to reverse engineer the problem I disconnected all the spade connectors and measured across the numbered and lettered sides with a multimeter and recorded as I turned the knob which pairs were shorted for each function.

these are the results

  • off: nothing
  • light: 8,1
  • both elements: 8,6,5,1
  • bottom element: 8,6,1
  • top element: 8,5,1
  • low rotisserie: 8,7,2,1
  • hi rotisserie: 8,7,2,1
  • hi rotisserie & fan: 8,7,5,3,2,1
  • both elements & fan: 8,6,5,3,1
  • convection: 8,4,3,1
  • clean: 8,3,1

I concluded that the bottom element need to be connected to 6, top to 5, the fan to 3, the convection elem. to 4, 8,1 seemed like live and neutral for the lights, and 7,2 were the rotisserie motor and grill elem.enter image description here

there is a picture of what the wire looks like after I tried to fix it. when wired based on the findings above and my understanding of the wiring diagram the clock turned on but would cycle through turning off with a click, turning on and displaying --:--. as if it was resetting every 3-5 seconds. none of the oven functions worked.

wiring diagram from sticker on back of oven

[wire diagram with my added colors indicating live and neutral and text labels based on my understanding][1]

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  • As I read your question, it seems that you disagree with the manufacturer's wiring diagram and have rewired it based on your investigations of what happens when different knobs are turned and buttons pushed. You seem to be confused as to why it doesn't work after you've wired it differently than the mfgr said it should be wired. If I've misread your intent, my apologies...
    – FreeMan
    Oct 25 '21 at 15:16
  • @FreeMan, not at all my intent. i admit that I don't fully understand the Mgf diagram so i tried to reverse engineer it with tests i described. im asking for help with understanding the diagram because I clearly didn't understand it correctly and need to fix the wiring so that it will work. Oct 26 '21 at 7:40
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I figured it out!! for those of you who w/ similar problems, here are my mistakes:

  1. temperature input AND output is live-red in schematic
  2. my oven doesnt have touch screen so top R part of schematic is irrelevant. PC with Tp1-4 is the digital timer/clock PCB. in my case it's not working so I disconnected all the wires from it & shorted all three live wire & left neutral wire disconnected. resulting in oven & gas sparkers working fine & only the timer/clock not working. in future might order a new PCB & get it all working but it seems that the part is 270GBP so too expensive for now.

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