I have an outlet box size for 2 switches wide, the width including the plate is 5"

My existing one has 3 side ways toggle and a light switch. However, I want everything to be smart.

I would prefer wifi, and it would have access to internet, but I am hoping basic functionality would exist without internet in case of emergency.

I am planning on integrating this into home assistant one way or another.

  1. light switch 3 bulbs with LED about 25-50w each

side ways toggles

  1. light (built-in to fan) 30w
  2. fan (100w-200w?)
  3. heater (who knows, but could be 1500w)

So the biggest issue here is the heater. Most 4 gang don' support more than 10A.

There's no way the other 3 things are going to exceed 10a. The heater could draw 12.5a or 1500w on its own, but I don't know the actual rating.

I found plenty of 4 gang switches, but the ones I have come across all share a single hot wire. Thus a heater can not be added directly to said load.

Is there another way of handling this?

Any suggestion need to follow code UL,NEC, and etc.

In an ideal world I would like add a humidity and temperature sensor to the mix but this seems unrealistic.

Is there a legal way to attach a relay to the heater switch, and thus the relay would consume less power and fall within rating of a 10A switch?

Do they make 15a smart 4 gang smart switch?

4 gang switches that don't share a single hot wire? Even if there were only 2 hot wires, it would fine.

I found this https://www.ebay.com/itm/322517872264?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 AC relay However, would it even be legal to wedge this in the back of your outlet box?

How about this? https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwiw9Oi7qonzAhVUKzgKHflABvAYABA6GgJqZg&sig=AOD64_2jplkOrQBFxZ3f7J3JQQtRBi2Giw&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwiV5OK7qonzAhXMQs0KHdSCDFAQww8IvAY&adurl=

This even has a cover: https://www.amazon.com/SSR-25AA-70-250VAC-Output-24-480VAC-Plastic/dp/B08RW3C2TX/ref=sr_1_60_sspa

  • 1
    Is adding modules at the ceiling boxes an option? This sounds like a job for Insteon if you ask me... Sep 18 at 21:35
  • It sounds like you have something very similar to what I have in two of my bathrooms - a triple switch connected to a light/exhaust fan/heater and a single switch (on a different circuit) connected to other lights. Those types of combo devices are designed to max. out a 15A circuit at 80%, so typical might be 100W light (less on newer models thanks to LED), 50W fan and 1300W heater. In other words, those 3 switches that are together are already on a shared hot/1 circuit. The issue is (a) controlling all from one smart switch and (b) whether you can add the other lights to that circuit. Sep 19 at 1:54

Never fear, Insteon's here!

Most smart-switches can only control something that has wires back to the switch point, and take up a full gang of space. However, the Insteon system, as the spiritual descendant of X10, is capable of using ceiling modules that talk to Insteon switches over powerline or wireless communications to remotely control loads. So, I'd do this in Insteon, with a four-button keypad in the wallbox and In-Line Linc relay modules switching the lights, fan, and heater. You can also add an Insteon motion sensor to this setup if you want that functionality, powered either from batteries or a USB power adapter.

  • They do have an 18 amp switch which could work, but the fan part of the module is limited to 1 amp seems risky to go that low. Also it says it doesn't support LED lighting. So what parts were you thinking?
    – cybernard
    Sep 19 at 15:39
  • @cybernard -- you don't want their ceiling fan module, as that's not for vent fans (or LEDs for that matter) -- I'd just use the plain In-Line Linc relay (switch) modules for this, as those support 20A without an issue and can switch any load up to that current Sep 19 at 15:51
  • It seems they are out of stock.
    – cybernard
    Sep 24 at 16:16
  • @cybernard -- that's very well possible. unfortunately, they're aren't exactly abundant alternatives to Insteon, as very few "smart" things can provide the flexibility it offers Sep 24 at 22:37

You could install a smart socket at the heater location rather than a smart switch at the switch location for the heater. Get rid of the wall switch for the heater and just use your app. Then you have a full two-gang box to control three lighting circuits. It should be easier to find things that fit and you don't need a relay. In the switch box, when you connect the live feed to the cable feeding the heater outlet, make that connection with a wire nut or Wago, not in your smart switch terminals.

  • The heater is part of the fan light in the ceiling. I can't just plug it in
    – cybernard
    Sep 18 at 22:10
  • Ah that's too bad.
    – jay613
    Sep 18 at 22:35

New answer:

To control your heater, use a smart line voltage thermostat. Usually the heater has a separate circuit (or should).

enter image description here

  • 2
    Based on description, I don't think this is a ceiling fan. I think it is a typical bathroom light/exhaust fan/heater combination. The basic models only have one speed ("on") for the exhaust fan and for the heater fan. So shouldn't have any speed controller issues but does need to be rated appropriately for motor loads and total power. Sep 19 at 1:50
  • 1
    Changed answer after clarification.
    – DrSparks
    Sep 19 at 2:12
  • Link to thermostat: shop.getmysa.com/products/…
    – DrSparks
    Sep 19 at 2:13
  • This type of heater is usually designed for relatively short usage. It isn't for "heat the bathroom from cold to normal". It is for "make it extra warm when bathing and a little while after". Normally not thermostatically controlled. Sep 19 at 2:46
  • 1
    That's fine, this thermostat would allow you to remote control it, turn it on on a schedule (say 10 mins before waking up) and not having the bathroom hotter than the surface of Venus by the time you get there. 🤣
    – DrSparks
    Sep 19 at 4:05

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