this is my new smart switch. These three gangs are linked to live line. I transfer three switch line to each L1,L2 and L3 and live line to L.

There is a bunch of black wire which is combined of 5. and green and yellow.

I tried to put one of black wire to the N. the switch turned on with only one of black.

at the end, the light of switch was on and when I touch each buttons it turn to red, which is working right, but the actual right on the ceiling didn't on, it looks like not connected.

Did I do something wrong or it is the defective product? should I use all of black wire to N? but the hall was too small to put all of 5.

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2 Answers 2


You need to keep all the black wires together and also connect them to "N" with a sixth piece of wire. If that orange terminal block is not big enough for a sixth wire, get a bigger one.

  • Thank you for answering. the N hall of new switch is not big enough to put five wires. , Can combine all these black wires with another wire and connect it into the N hall?
    – Jane
    Sep 18, 2021 at 6:17
  • 1
    Yes that's right.
    – jay613
    Sep 18, 2021 at 11:09
  • What is the word (German? What?) that you are translating to "hall"? I think you mean terminal or connector.
    – jay613
    Sep 18, 2021 at 20:44

Send it back!

This is cheap junk. Seriously. For many other consumer goods, that just doesn't matter. But this is connected to your main electrical supply. Everything directly connected to your main electrical supply (I suspect 240V but same issue with 120V) must be properly certified/listed. Typically in the United States this is UL. In other places it may be ETL or something else. But this thing is junk. Numerous red flags:

  • 95V - 250V rating. That is common for a laptop power supply or similar item. Very uncommon (for a bunch of reasons) for something installed in the wall.
  • Extremely poor grammar/sentence structure in the warning message.
  • Symbols listed are CE (mostly meaningless), FCC (almost certainly fake and not terribly relevant), RoHS (not terribly relevant)
  • No manufacturer/model # listed in the main label (might be embossed somewhere, hard to tell)

and really just "you know it when you see it".

Much less wrong (in most cases) with cheap junk plugged in, because you can unplug it if there is a problem. But installed in your wall, you will likely not know there is a problem until it becomes a BIG PROBLEM. Like smoke or fire.

It is very tempting to get the $ 20 smart switch instead of the $ 50 smart switch. But definitely not a good idea.

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