DCS RGU 366 oven doesn't turn on

Question

I have:

DCS RGU 366-N oven

Symptom:

When I try to start oven, the ring lights will light up, but gas never flows, and ignition never starts.

Checked:

• The stove burners work.
• I hear the relais click when I switch on oven and temperature knob.
• Stalled Fan Thermostat (SFT) is closed (0 Ohm), as expected.
• High Temp Cutoff (HCT) is closed (0 Ohm), as expected.

History:

The last time the oven malfunctioned, it was caused by a burnt out Stalled Fan Thermostat (Oven ran with door ajar.) That thermostat is mounted near the control knobs on the front. I successfully replaced it, and the oven ran fine for 7 months after that. This time, the symptoms differ: ring lights do light up now.

Schematic:

This schematic was glued on the back of the unit. Kudos to DCS to ship the stove with schematic attached.

Initial diagnosis:

I thought originally that this time, the HTC (High Temp Cut-off) switch is broken. But the HTC measures 0 Ohm. Also the SFT measures 0 Ohm. Those seem to be fine.

This is the view when I removed one back-panel:

Current diagnosis:

Considering that all the switches close, I think it is valve-related. The unit has a safety valve that wont open as long as the igniter does not have the full 3Amp current flowing through it.

My symptoms are consistent with a defective igniter. The only unexpected part is that neither BAKE nor BROIL works, so that would mean two defective igniters? Which is kinda weird.

Plan:

I have removed the bottom igniter, and will attempt a replacement. The valve mentions I need 3.3/3.6 Amp 60Hz. This is the removed igniter:

Question:

Why will the oven not turn on? No gas, no ignition. Whereas the stove burners will work just fine.

Answer 1

This was caused by a defective igniter. These are $150 as OEM replacement, but I used a generic $40 replacement that works just fine. You just have to match the amperage!

The oven works as follows:

Once you start the oven (mode switch and thermostat) a current will flow through the igniter, causing it to glow yellow/white.

The (dual) gas valve is connected in series with the igniters.

Once the valve sees 3.3 Amps flowing through the igniter, it will open the gas valve.

NOTE: You can check what amperage your valve expects (and thus what igniter to buy) using this table.