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The driver for my LED lamp was broken and I ordered a new one online. Here you can see the specifications of the old one: enter image description here

I tried to match these specifications as good as possible and bought the following new driver: enter image description here

After connecting my lamp to the new driver it turns on for a split second and then stays off for 2 more seconds periodically.

Here you can see the specifications of my lamp: enter image description here enter image description here

Did I buy the correct driver for my lamp? If not, what driver should I use such that my lamp is working without flashing.

I'm happy about any help!!

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  • What was wrong with the old power supply ("driver")?
    – Rodo
    Aug 31, 2021 at 20:08
  • The lamp didnt light up with with the old power supply. So I was suspecting that it was broken. Do you think it could be also a problem related to the LED's? At least the new power supply causes them to flash, which was not the case with the old one.
    – Pepe
    Aug 31, 2021 at 20:18
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    The ampere rating do not match.From what I've read LED are sensitive and do NOT limit current by itself...see this question electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/14656/… you find matching led drivers on ali express...
    – Rubus
    Aug 31, 2021 at 20:30
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    From what I was able to find the driver limits the power output, the power supply you purchased does not. Try adding a few ohms resistance in series with the DC to the lamp and see if that stops the blinking. Careful the resistors can get hot. If that works you can get or make a constant current driver that will operate from 12V. Does this have remote control and dimming?
    – Gil
    Aug 31, 2021 at 21:41
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    @FreeMan I have added my answer, I'll accept it tomorrow.
    – Pepe
    Sep 1, 2021 at 19:53

2 Answers 2

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So I told my father (it's his LED light) about the flashing of the lamps with the new power supply and he told me that with the old power supply he had the same problem (before he told me it was just broken). Moreover I told him then to check the old power supply together with the electrician in his company and they found out it works fine. So the problem should not be the old power supply. Sorry for the confusion! I will now check if there is a problem with the LED lamps as for example @dandavis suggested in the comments.

Thanks to everyone for the usefull tips :)

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You can use some diodes to drop the voltage as well, use something rated at least 3 amps and if it works it could be a permanent fix. Be sure they do not get to hot. If you look at the current curve of a LED the current rises almost exponentially with the voltage once the threshold is reached. A few hundred milivolts the diodes drop will noticeably reduce the current. Your driver puts out 1500 (1.5 Amp) Milliamps until the voltage reaches 12V. At that point it goes from constant current mode to constant voltage mode, which limits the voltage to 12 volts. They make switch mode converters that have the capability of CC/CV. They are not that expensive and would do what you want. They may be sold to charge Lead or Nicad batteries and allow you to adjust both parameters. Ohm's law says you will only get constant current or constant voltage, not both concurrently. You can also get another LED driver unit to replace the one you have.

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  • I don't think this will help; the lamp wants 12v and the supply provides 12v. If the lamp's innards are all passives like LED strip, it's 3 LEDs in series for ~10v and a resistor dropping the last 2v; a few 100mv won't do much, PWM dimming would be better, and that would be a great lamp btw. If the lamp's innards are actives, like a boosting CC SMPS to drive 8 LEDs in series, it doesn't matter what you feed it in terms of volts, it will take 15W anyway it can; 5v*3a, 10v*1.5a, etc. If there were only LEDs on the other end of the wire, your idea works, but the factory supply wouldn't have.
    – dandavis
    Sep 1, 2021 at 6:45

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