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We converted the garage into a laundry room and 4th bedroom and are not quite sure what to do about the transition/step down/threshold from what used to be an exterior doorway. Any ideas or input is greatly appreciated.enter image description here

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    Welcome! Are you keeping the door and its jamb but want to remove the threshold? We'll be able to make more effective suggestions if you'll provide a photo of the area.
    – Greg Hill
    Aug 20 '21 at 3:55
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    To misuse an old saying, "pics or we can't help you"! Is it a 1" drop, several steps? Hard to tell from your description.
    – FreeMan
    Aug 20 '21 at 12:24
  • Sorry Gents but I can't seem to figure out how to add a picture to my question. Keeping the current jamb, replacing door and threshold. The drop is roughly 3 inches.
    – LiquorGuy
    Aug 20 '21 at 13:08
  • @FreeMan I figured out how to add a picture. See original post.
    – LiquorGuy
    Aug 20 '21 at 14:10
  • @Greg Hill I figured out how to add a picture. See original post.
    – LiquorGuy
    Aug 20 '21 at 14:11
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In all honesty... I'd entirely remove the door and jamb and wrap drywall around this instead. That'll go a long way toward minimizing the feel of "converted garage." But you have your reasons for keeping the jamb and door so I'll indulge. :-)

First get the threshold out of the way. There may be fasteners going through the threshold down into the floor, especially if this is not the original threshold for the doorway. Look for any removable strip on top of the threshold that might be concealing fasteners. If it's original the threshold is almost certainly attached to the bottom end of the jamb on both sides as well. Freeing the threshold from the jambs might take some combination of cutting/shearing the threshold as with a saw blade or a chisel, a bit of prying but not so much as to damage the jamb, etc.

Transitions like this are needed in flooring often. Choose some materials to build a bullnose to cover the concrete. To match the color and style of the lower floor you might pick unfinished or pre-finished wood like oak, maple, or alder. To match the color and style of the upper floor you might pick a strip of real or cultured stone like marble. IMHO it looks nicest when the nosing matches the upper surface so I'd choose the stone.

If you have a few spare matching tiles in storage or can get more it might help things if you cover part of this space in tile. It looks like you have about 7 inches of floor to cover, whereas nosings are often offered in narrower widths like 4 inches.

Whichever material you choose it's probably easiest to fasten with construction adhesive applied directly to the well-cleaned and dry concrete.

Photo credit: www.peakoak.co.uk and www.tileshop.com. oak bullnose marble bullnose

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  • I considered getting rid of the door all together but this goes from the kitchen to a laundry area and then to the 4th bedroom so wanted to be able to separate the 3 different rooms as much as possible. I think I do have some extra tile but I think it would look odd as the tile that ends under the threshold is only 3/4 of a full square. So, if I went that route I'd feel like I would have to bust up the 3 tile and lay new. Matching grout would be tricky as well. This is a renthouse that's been off the market for a year due to Hurricane Laura damage and I'm trying to get it back on mkt asap.
    – LiquorGuy
    Aug 20 '21 at 16:34
  • I think I'm going to go the route of laying down some wood that matches the LVP that I have down already.
    – LiquorGuy
    Aug 20 '21 at 16:35
  • A pre-fab bullnose threshold or stair tread, eh? Why didn't I think of that?
    – FreeMan
    Aug 20 '21 at 18:02
  • @FreeMan Due to the width required it may yet be necessary to fabricate a custom bullnose!
    – Greg Hill
    Aug 20 '21 at 18:32
  • I actually saw a video not long ago of a guy that used LVP on his stairs by using a stair tread as his mold and clamping the plank to it, heating it up and bending it over the nose then clamping it down while it cooled. Once it was done he'd pull it off and it was a perfect fit.
    – LiquorGuy
    Aug 20 '21 at 19:16
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Yeesh... 3" is tough.

Unless you need wheel chair access a ramp/slope is not appropriate

Yellow & black safety striping is appropriate to prevent trips, but really ugly for interior.

This is what I'd do:

  • I'd remove what looks like a metal threshold at the edge of the tile (just under the shop-vac). It'll probably come up by removing a couple of screws.

  • Then I'd cut a piece of the laminate flooring to cover the riser of the step and glue it on. Even though it's probably not supposed to be glued, that's the only way it would stay in a vertical mount.

    Alternatively (as suggested by manassehkatz in a comment), use a piece of solid wood of the type that the laminate simulates for this step and the next. i.e., if you've got "oak" laminate flooring, get a strip of oak to use for this. The drawback is that you'll probably need:

    • Some tools (a thickness planer - either powered or hand) to make the new wood the proper thickness so as to not increase the height of the threshold, and
    • To spend some time with a collection of different stains and the scraps of your lumber to find a color combination and application technique to match the color of the laminate so that it looks natural. I'd suggest a trip to the Woodworking sister site for loads of details on finishing.
  • Next, I'd lay a strip of the laminate flooring across the door sill, covering the top edge of the vertical piece. It might need some stain or paint on the visible edge of the flooring to hide/minimize the different color of the interior vs the surface.

  • Finally, I'd use a plastic/vinyl or wood transition strip to cover the gap between the tile & the newly laid door sill.

I don't know what code has to say about a 3" step, but you probably didn't chew up much height from the original concrete garage floor, so you're probably OK with this.

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  • +1 You beat me by 1 minute - I deleted my answer in progress. The only thing I would recommend differently is to not use the laminate. Instead, find some wood of a similar color - it does not need to be an exact match. Then cut/fit 2 pieces (one vertical, one horizontal) to match the exact contour of the step. Aug 20 '21 at 14:29
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    Fair point, @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact. I just figured that the laminate was convenient/handy.
    – FreeMan
    Aug 20 '21 at 14:43

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