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As the question says. I have a tight downstairs cloakroom in my house, that I'm redesigning. The inches taken up by a typical cistern behind the toilet is a problem,it pushes the seat too close to the wall for easy use. An old fashioned "up on the wall with a chain flush" is a non starter aesthetically (to me, anyway!). But many toilets in shops and offices have touch or heat sensitive (contactless) flushes, and this gave me an idea.

Suppose I put the cistern in another room above, either in a cupboard or void space on the upstairs floor (1st floor UK, 2nd floor USA), or in the converted-bedroom loft. Then in the downstairs cloakroom I provide a pressure sensitive or touch sensitive flush button on the wall instead - but no cistern in the cloakroom, just the slim downpipe.

One problem I can imagine is water pressure might not be enough for siting in the loft, but that won't be an issue for the upstairs floor if so. A second issue might be sporadic noise at all hours - but I imagine most of the noise is in the water rushing into the toilet, not in the cistern or its refill, and I would hope to resolve this with muffling, boxing in, soundproofing etc, so the cistern end upstairs is near-silent. A possible advantage could be greater inrush to the toilet and perhaps a more effective flush?

Has anyone got experience of such a setup?

What would the pros and cons (if any) be? How big a problem would noise be upstairs, or muffling it? Are there any substantial reasons I should reconsider not doing it this way?

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  • Having a remote cistern with the original old style pans designed for that type of flush should work fine. That did give rise to classic English phrases such as "Who pulled your chain" when people tried to interrupt someone... :)
    – Solar Mike
    Commented Jul 21, 2021 at 17:26

3 Answers 3

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Have you considered a toilet with it's cistern/tank built into the wall behind the toilet - like this set?
enter image description here
tank (amazon)

enter image description here
toilet (amazon)
Just examples, not recommendations

As long as you have or can make space between the studs in the wall then the tank takes up no space at all.

I installed one of these about a year ago, and I find that it flushes better & more reliably than any other toilet in the house.

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    There isn't such an option. This isn't about hiding a cistern, which is purely cosmetic. It backs directly onto a solid masonry wall to the adjoining house,nor a stud wall or a place I can steal a few inches for a cistern.
    – Stilez
    Commented Jul 21, 2021 at 17:40
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The typical commercial toilets that don't have a visible tank don't have a tank at all. Instead they use what is commonly referred to as a Sloan valve. There are likely some other brands, but Sloan has been around a long time and is definitely what I see (if I bother to look closely enough at the fixture) in commercial bathrooms.

A quick search seems to indicate you can install this type of toilet in a residence, though there may be issues depending on your water pressure, and I suspect the fixtures are not inexpensive, because they are designed for heavy duty use - hundreds of flushes a day.

Using a tank but moving it to a different floor is looking for trouble. Additional pipes. Additional places to leak.

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You mentioned the possibility of greater inrush. At rest, when the cistern is filled and ready for use, the level of the water in the cistern might be some 30 cm above the rim of the toilet bowl. Because of the weight of the water itself that difference in height gives rise to a static pressure of 3 kPa (measurable at the flush valve at the bottom of the cistern).

If the cistern were elevated to the upstairs floor, perhaps 2.4m higher than its normal position, it'll develop about 24 kPa static pressure - substantially higher than what's normally expected.

Whether that's a problem is anybody's guess, and it'll probably depend heavily on the hydraulic design of the toilet in question. Bowl cleaning, flush performance, or splashing could be affected for better or worse. If the additional height/pressure causes the cistern to evacuate more quickly than normal it may increase the risk of bowl overflow. Usually a bowl and cistern are sized so that an entire flush can be contained in the bowl, but if this re-arrangement of the cistern resulted in the valve being at toilet level and the volume of the downpipe being added to the volume of the cistern, it could be problematic.

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  • Ooh, volume of downpipe! Forgot that bit! But surely the downpipe's empty before you flush, as its quite wide and open at the lower end - its not a siphon or "U". So there shouldn't be any downpipe volume added, if the valve remains at the cistern.
    – Stilez
    Commented Jul 21, 2021 at 16:45
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    Some cisterns were 6 feet above the bowl and had a nice 2" copper pipe as the connection. Just need to stay in some period hotels in some countries. You will find makers names such as Armitage Shanks and Thomas Crapper... For an example of a high mounted cistern see thomas-crapper.com
    – Solar Mike
    Commented Jul 21, 2021 at 17:39
  • @SolarMike I remember seeing pictures of those, and OP mentions the style too. But surely those were designed to perform with a tank at that height -- and they might perform poorly if the tank were instead placed atop the bowl or raised another 4 feet to the upper floor. One might have to experiment out in the garden to find out whether a particular toilet and custom configuration works acceptably.
    – Greg Hill
    Commented Jul 21, 2021 at 18:10
  • @GregHill the pans are designed to match the volume flow from the cistern, so taking a close coupled cistern up hogh won’t work but a pan designed for a high cistern should function fine if the cistern is 8 or 12 feet above compared to the original 6 feet.
    – Solar Mike
    Commented Jul 21, 2021 at 18:32

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