I have to remove a wall and there is a 220 cable that needs to be re-routed. To do that I have to extend the cable. Is extending possible using boxes and the right alumicon connectors. Here is another detail, the wire is labeled as below:


Please help.

Thank you.

  • 3
    Which appliance is the cable going to? Jul 16, 2021 at 9:47
  • 2
    Can you post a photo of where the cable ends? Jul 16, 2021 at 11:26
  • 1
    Is this a shopping question, a how-to question, or a question about code? For the first two see amazon.com/ALUM-COPPR-3PORT10PK-KING-MfrPartNo-95110/dp/…. For the last item you would have to let us know the total distance of the re-routed wire and the breaker size it is attached to.
    – MonkeyZeus
    Jul 16, 2021 at 13:09
  • @MonkeyZeus -- AlumiConns aren't chunky enough to handle 8AWG wire Jul 16, 2021 at 23:16
  • Still trying to find the ends of this wire. Wish there was an easy way to find out where the end was. I assumed I could just extend it 12 feet, by adding an extension using junctions boxes and good connectors. Also, the longest distance from the break box to any wall in the house is 80 Feet(including routing through walls.). In this case much of it is in the ceiling.
    – Jon J
    Jul 17, 2021 at 20:31

1 Answer 1


What this is feeding and where you are has consequence.

It appears that your existing cable is a 3 conductor that has two insulated conductors and a bare neutral, and you are probably in the US.

If it feeds a NEMA 6 style receptacle or other equipment like a water heater that uses two hots and the bare wire is used as a ground then your proposal to add two boxes and a jumper between the two with aluminum approved connectors is likely acceptable. Extending the distance does increase voltage drop (voltage loss), length of circuit may create a critical difference.

If the cable feeds a NEMA 10 style receptacle or hard wired connection to a clothes dryer or cooking appliance you likely will need to replace the cable. Modifications normally need to meet current code. It used to be legal to use 3 wires for some 120/240v* appliances by grounding via the current carrying neutral conductor. For at least 30 years the NEC** has required 4 wires for all 120/240v appliances, but has a special exception for existing dryers and cooking appliances in:

250.140 Frames of Ranges and Clothes Dryers... Exception No. 1: For existing branch-circuit installations only where an equipment grounding conductor is not present in the outlet or junction box, the frames of electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of the circuit for these appliances shall be permitted to be connected to the grounded circuit conductor*** if all the following conditions are met...

Notice the exception says "For existing branch circuits...", this is where it gets a little vague. Many Inspectors will say modifying the middle of the circuit doesn't meet the exception and you will need to pull new wire from the panelboard. A few will accept the extension doesn't change that it is an existing circuit.

*120/240v has been the standard US utility supply voltage for single phase residential services as long as my parents have been alive.

**The NEC becomes law by adoption of the local authority having jurisdiction, the current edition may not be adopted locally and may be adopted with amendments.

***The Grounded Circuit Conductor" is the phrase most often used in the NEC to describe the conductor normally called the neutral.

  • I have seen it argued you can add a ground for a 120/240v circuit. I don't understand that to meet NEC 338.10(B)(2). I have also seen it argued to use a GFCI breaker with the existing, I don't think that gets around 250.114 Jul 16, 2021 at 16:36

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