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We added some framing and put a piece of sheetrock to make a "pillar" between 2 open doorways a little bigger.

Of course, I did not consider that the drywall seam was placed where 2 separate parts of the wall structure meet, and so it is of course prone to cracking there.

The picture shows the area that we added drywall to, and the top of that is what it cracks (this is where the seam is, and where the beam for the opening meets the added framing). The crack is along both the horizontal and vertical edge along the top of the new sheet.

What can I do:

  1. to fix the crack now?
  2. prevent it from happening again? I know I could remove what I added + some above in order so that the problem area is spanned by a solid sheet, not a seam, but I would like to avoid this if possible).

picture of framing before sheetrock picture of crack

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    Did it crack along the horizontal seam at the top, or just the top section of the vertical seam? (or, can you just upload a picture of it now, with the cracked drywall visible)
    – TylerH
    Jun 28, 2021 at 14:08
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    I edited my answer, it is cracked both at the horizontal and vertical seam. I can add a picture when I get home today. Jun 28, 2021 at 14:18
  • I wouldn't have cut that bottom corner out of the smaller piece above the doorway. Having seams there tend to crack over time so I try to overlap those areas whenever possible like you have on the right side.
    – Phaelax z
    Jun 28, 2021 at 14:52
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    Forgot to mention that, the joint was taped using the mesh tape. Would paper tape be better? Jun 29, 2021 at 13:59
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    Use paper tape instead of mesh!
    – Glen Yates
    May 3 at 15:28

3 Answers 3

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  • Using full size sheets to minimize the number of joints will reduce the likelihood of cracking at joints, even though it might not make the most efficient use of your drywall scraps.
  • Ensure that you've properly mudded and taped the joints. If the joint is too dry, the tape is likely to come off, appearing as a crack (or just failing tape).
    • The screw heads should have been fully embedded in mud and not visible.
    • Based on the appearance of the screw heads, it looks like you really skimped on the mud and it's likely you also skimped on the mud behind and over the tape, leading to premature cracking.
  • Ensure that your framing is solid. There shouldn't be so much movement that you're getting cracks before you've even finished trimming out the new work.
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  • Yes, this -- your tape or mud technique might just need work. Redo the joints. May 16 at 17:40
  • Thanks for your answer! Was more wondering if anything can be done without removing the sheets, but this is still good info! By the way, the exposed screws you mentioned were just left alone since they were going to be behind trim anyway. The ones out in the open were fully covered. May 16 at 17:55
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USG (large drywall supplier) only suggests using mesh tape with "hot mud" (setting-type drywall compound - dry product in a bag) and recommends using paper tape as being stronger if using drying-type (bucket-o-mud) compound. Mesh + setting compound is supposed to be stronger than paper + drying-type.

I'm guessing you used mesh tape with drying compound.

So, redoing the joints would perhaps be worthwhile.

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Yes using paper tape, and setting compound are stronger.

Cut open the cracked seams. If the tape comes out you can pull it out. Taper the joint edges with a knife so that drywall mud can enter between the sheets.

Then re-tape with paper tape and setting compound for your first 2 coats, then you can switch back to premix for finishing coats.

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