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I'd like to replace my current light switch with this one: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B07RV3KXF4. Wiring diagram (focus on the one on the right):

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My house is a rather old one and I only have two wires (no ground) in my current switch box which makes me conclude that the switch is at the end of the line loop:

enter image description here

I'm an amateur diy hobbyist, so please correct me if there's something wrong with the following list of actions:

  1. According to the smart switch diagram, I need a power cable in my switch box. I plan to add it from a nearby electric socket which is on the same circuit as the switch.
  2. I could then use the hot and neutral wires from that cable as my input ("Eingang" in the smart switch diagram).
  3. I would then need to disconnect the power source coming into the light bulb box (everything except ground?) and instead of the white neutral wire connect the white wire with black tape on it (see buildmyowncabin.com image above).
  4. I could then safely connect the remaining two initial wires in the switch box as my output ("Ausgang in the smart switch diagram).

If I understand correctly, such configuration should successfully work with dimmable LED light bulbs, right?

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    You are doing an impressive job mapping North American electrical advice into your situation. One thing: 99% of Amazon sellers are selling cheap Chinese junk with a faked CE mark. If it ships from a bricks and mortar warehouse inside the EU, the CE mark is usually legit. This seller ships from their own warehouse, and claim a DE street address. I'd get on Google Maps/Earth and make sure that's actually a warehouse, and not just a mail-drop. Jun 25 at 17:59
  • Thanks Harper! You're right, it'll probably carry a fake CE mark as these switches are common in Asia markets. The reviews are decent though, I guess I'll take the risk. Jun 26 at 13:16
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I successfully connected the light switch after installing a power cable inside the switch box and doing the rewiring described above.

Light switch: 230V Dimmer With 2.4G Radio Option, TRIAC

LED bulbs: Osram E27, 2700K, 2452 lm, dimmable

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  • I'm not sure if it's code in Germany, but you probably do NOT want to have any of the wires from the original power source in the light fixture connected to any of the wires from your new arrangement. i.e. All the old wires should be capped. You don't want to create a loop in your wiring. (Different in the UK where they use ring circuits, but neither your nor I are in the UK.)
    – FreeMan
    Jul 13 at 14:01
  • Thanks for pointing this out FreeMan. The power source cables were disconnected both at one end at the light fixture and at the other end (specifically, a junction box near the ceiling above the switch) where they were connected to 230V. This allowed me to, I assume, safely repurpose those wires as "output" for the switch. Jul 15 at 9:22

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