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I have this panel: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR-125-Amp-6-Space-12-Circuit-Indoor-Main-Lug-Flush-with-Ground-Bar-BR612L125FGP/305882536

And these EATON Type BR120 Type C120 breakers:

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What type/brand/spec of GFCI/AFCI combo breaker should I use? I want to replace all regular breakers with GFCI/AFCI combo ones. I see there are many types and they are not all the same. Some might not have the proper fitting for my panel.

Thank you.

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  • Probably this homedepot.com/p/…. You should remove an existing breaker, take it to the store with you, and compare it against the GFCI/CAFCI combo breaker. If you're not comfortable removing a breaker then you have no business purchasing the breaker. Per your previous post, just have the electrician take care of the materials.
    – MonkeyZeus
    Jun 18, 2021 at 14:58
  • @MonkeyZeus Thank you. Does it have to be EATON? Or may be I can look for options under the same "type"? I'm doing my research first, about cost, options. Is there a smart GFCI/AFCI that would be available for me without replacing the panel itself?
    – igorjrr
    Jun 18, 2021 at 15:10
  • Check Eaton's breaker compatibility list. I don't have enough experience to list out what will/won't work. As for "smart" breakers, what are those? Provide a link. Quite simply, if the back stab does not fit then you cannot use the breaker.
    – MonkeyZeus
    Jun 18, 2021 at 15:15
  • I would suggest going slow as you may find out they are a royal pain in the butt on many circuits. I fully agree with GFCI around water and such. I agree that AFCI’s in bedrooms protect from electric blanket fires but other than those items I do not believe that they are worth the cost, second they will not last as long as an inverse time breaker so you will be replacing and resetting much more often and even the manufacturer can’t provide a reason some devices show faults when nothing is wrong!
    – Ed Beal
    Jun 18, 2021 at 16:56

1 Answer 1

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We're talking about two panels:

  • #1 the panel you asked about in earlier questions which is Eaton or predecessor.
  • and #2 the new panel you just linked which is Eaton.

In both cases, you must use Eaton BR breakers. You must use breakers UL-listed and approved for the panel. Breaker panels differ - to avoid patent infringement they all made their bus stabs and clips slightly different, and the wrong breaker will have poor bus stab contact and will arc and damage the bus stab... so breakers are NOT compatible across brands even if they appear to fit.

This might seem anti-competitive, but it's not - breakers are reasonably priced, even compared to Europe's "open standard" breaker systems. Unless they're Square D "QO".

In fact, competitive pricing is why your only choice is Eaton. UL permits competitor breakers, and will mark them "UL-Classified" when they are certified safe. Square D "QO" overpriced and as a result both Eaton and Siemens make UL-Classified breakers for QO. Nobody else makes breakers UL-classified for BR, because Eaton doesn't repeat Square D's mistake - they price their breakers very competitively, leaving their competitors no airspace on price!

What type of GFCI/AFCI combo breaker should I use?

"BR type".

What brand of GFCI/AFCI combo breaker should I use?

Eaton, unless someone else wants to lose money trying to compete with Eaton with a UL-Classified breaker for BR.

What spec of GFCI/AFCI combo breaker should I use?

That's a good question. I'd get the most modern type, which has an electronic control giving an LED readout as to exactly what the previous trip reason was, and also has electronic detection of overloads for better performance.

Regardless, buy ONE such breaker. Bring it home. Test it on each circuit one by one.

That is for two reasons: #1 confirm that the breaker will physically fit inside your panel, as I discussed in the other question; and #2 to assure that hooking up the circuit won't instantly trip due to some faulty wiring or defective appliance. Thus, test-fit the AFCI/GFCI breaker onto each circuit one at a time, checking for all that.

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