1

So, as the question states... What is the "right" way to do this?

Purple are the joists. Orange are the edges of the board. Red is the butt joint. Cyan are the screws - mainly doing edge screws

"A" - Just meet on the joist. One screw per side (so, not that dissimilar to an ipe clip)

A

"B" - Double Stretcher

B

"C" - something else?

edit

I'm thinking that top screwing with plugs and a 45 degree cut is the correct response. If I just cut at 45 degrees and edge screw, I get the following problem - These screws are too close to the edge to bite into the joist.

Too Close

So, they will just require some through-screws, with plugs to hide.

Solution

6
  • 1
    "right way" is to have the joists perpendicular to the decking.
    – Jasen
    Jun 13 at 10:03
  • 1
    I would be worried about the edges of the deck boards cupping with option A, since the edges are not fastened to the joists. What about cutting the ends of the deck boards at 45 deg (or whatever angle the joists run at), so that the edges can lay entirely along a joist? You probably have to cut many of the deck boards anyway.
    – SteveSh
    Jun 13 at 11:28
  • Are these screws set into the edge of the decking at an angle as in toe screwed? or are they screws ran in through the surface?
    – Jack
    Jun 13 at 17:10
  • Yes, toe screwed, using the Camo Edge screw system. I do have screws and plugs where necessary, so if that means on a joint, so be it. I think I am going to just cut at an angle, tightbond 111/sawdust to try and minimize visibility. (I was worried on how the angled cuts would look). I assume I don't end-seal those cuts? (Like, does the TB111 act as the end sealer in that case, to prevent checking)
    – Akshue
    Jun 14 at 13:57
  • Yes it will seal the ends. It will last better if the joints are tight enough to keep UV rays from degrading the glue. The sun is a potent destroyer of things
    – Jack
    Jun 14 at 14:19
2

If it were me I would cut the decking at a 45 degree angle so the joint bears fully on the joists. Depending if you are plugging the holes or not, I would cut that joint with a compound cut, 45 degree bevel, 45 degree angle. The reason being, if the screws are not plugged, the screws will be a feature of the deck. Therefore I would cut the compound angle and run the screws so they go through both pieces and the screw pattern does not change over the surface of the deck. If I were to plug the holes, then the cuts over the joist need not be a compound angle, just a simple 45 degree cut and set 2 screws in each piece since the screws will not be so noticeable in the end product.

2
  • That, and I'm doing a bit of a modifed hexagon. I couldn't figure out how to give enough support at the 90 degree corners if I went straight into the pool. I was counting on the cantileaver to hide any imperfections in the posts and digging.
    – Akshue
    Jun 14 at 14:04
  • I am not a big fan of adding framing to support joints when the joists are full capable of doing that job already. To add another option, a different take on your "C" sketch, turn the added framing 90 degrees, so it acts as a joist under the joint. I would almost suggest placing it flat to give more surface for the toe screws, but this way leaves a lot of surface to hold moisture..
    – Jack
    Jun 14 at 14:24
0

Difficult to think there is a problem. I have about a 500 sq ft. deck with a 45 "theme". The deck is 45 to the house, the joists are 45 to the decking , one section of deck is 45 to the main section. Other than the end of each deck board being partially over a joist, there is no special joints; the decking was just butted together. It is 25 years old and the only problems have been rusted deck screws and some rot under large plant pots. The material is treated pine so maybe this is not helpful.

1
  • That information belongs in your answer, not down here.
    – isherwood
    Jun 15 at 12:45

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