I had a light in my bathroom. It stopped working. I assumed it was a conventional light thatenter image description here could be easily replaced. Wow, was that wrong. Attached are a set of pictures of the light. It looks like an LED light with a special power supply. I am not sure (at all) if the power supply failed or the LED's failed (or something else?).

Does anyone know what this really is? Where I can get a replacement?

Image 1 Image 2 Image 3

  • Aren't the white and black wires hot and neutral? nothing special about that...
    – dandavis
    Commented Jun 1, 2021 at 14:45

2 Answers 2


Oh, it's the power supply. That LED you tore apart is totally innocent. If you put exactly 530ma (at around 16-21V) from a bench power supply on that LED, it would light right up.

You probably don't remember radios and TVs having tubes, but consumers used to have to open up the back of their TV or amplifier all the time and change out tubes. Then transistors came along, and that was the end of that - the transistors just didn't fail. They even gave up having transistor sockets and soldered the transistors to the boards. Now of course it's all integrated circuits, but same deal - the silicon doesn't fail.

LEDs are like that. They don't fail, so they don't socket them. What fails is capacitors and other stuff inside the power supplies. So that little driver module is surely your problem (unless you spot a wire or cold-solder problem elsewhere).

That power supply delivers a specific, exact current - 530ma - at a voltage range somewhere between 16 and 21 volts, wherever that happens. This is the opposite of what you're used to, power supplies that deliver a constant voltage at variable amperage. But that reflects how LEDs work - they are current devices.

That is a "RU rated" supply, meaning it is UL-approved as a component. You can get component LED drivers from sites such as mouser.com. They have a search engine to trivially match up the current and the voltage range: however, you will need to "hand browse" the listings looking for that physical form factor.

Lastly, if you detached the LED from its heat sink, make sure you know how to re-attach things to heat sinks. Mishandling that will cause an LED to burn up.

  • I know that I am not supposed to do this... However, thank you for your reply. Commented Jun 1, 2021 at 16:45
  • Sadly, I do remember radios and TVs with actual tubes. My parents had them. They were being phased out, when I was a kid. I do have a question. Could it be the wall switch that has actually failed? Commented Jun 1, 2021 at 16:48

It is a conventional light that is easily replaced.

The orange connector is a very standard line voltage connection for recessed or "can" lights.

The light is a standard enough recessed light, of the LED flavor. Those are "conventional" these days, while glowing filaments are increasingly "retro"/"outdated."

Usually the driver fails and the LEDs are fine, but it ends up not mattering:

In practical terms, you usually end up replacing the whole thing, because the parts are much harder to find (and often cost more if you can find them) than a complete replacement fixture.

You can follow up on the clearly printed information on the driver unit if you want to pursue parts replacement. Or you can walk into any home improvement or lighting store and walk out with a whole new fixture (or order one on the internet, which is likely your only option for the parts-replacement option.)

  • I know that I am not supposed to do this... However, thank you for your reply. Commented Jun 1, 2021 at 16:45

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