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Chain saw bar adjustment pin closeup.

Chain saw bar adjustment pin closeup.

Is the short space at the top of this image the remaining amount left for adjustment? What percent of the range is left? What amount should the new setting have been?

This is a totally new saw, less than 30 minuets of use. Opened up to tighten the chain a little. If this is not the way a new saw adjustment screw should be,I would like some reference to meet the manufacturer with to back up such a claim.

Parts diagram

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  • Every saw is different. Either check with the manufacturer, with the instructions or give us all the information for your saw.
    – JACK
    May 26, 2021 at 23:02
  • It's more about the chain than the bar. And you can kill a chain faster by snugging it up when it heats up and then not slacking it off when you stop working, so it stretches when it cools. Wearing out a bar is rare for the average homeowner using a saw (if they use bar and chain oil, anyway...) Chains, however, are very much a consumable, and more if you abuse them. The adjustment is based on the chain on the saw, not some "where do I set it in advance" position.
    – Ecnerwal
    May 26, 2021 at 23:04
  • New Information: "a totally new saw, less than 30 minuets of use. Opened up to tighten the chain a little." ...and does the manual suggest that you take the bar off to adjust the chain? A chainsaw can have many different bars installed, and may require a good deal more range to accommodate different bars than it does to tighten a particular chain on a particular bar. In any case, taking the bar off is absolutely not how you "tighten the chain a little" on any saw I've ever met. It also possible, though uncommon, to have more than one hole for the adjuster on the bar.
    – Ecnerwal
    May 28, 2021 at 2:46
  • Did you try adjusting to the extreme to see what happens? I think you're misinterpreting how things move. Almost the entirety of the screw is still available for adjustment.
    – isherwood
    May 28, 2021 at 14:31

2 Answers 2

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Given new information that reveals details not disclosed in the original question:

Snippet from the owners manual.

So, nothing in there about taking the bar off to adjust the chain, though it is just after the point where they describe removing and replacing the chain. Since you appear to have (from your linked parts diagram, where I found the model number so I could find a manual) an electric pole saw, not a normal chainsaw, and it evidently has a complete lack of oiling system I kept that in the picture when taking a clipping from the manual for the purpose of this question. You'll want to be dedicated about oiling the thing. The adjustment range is likely plenty, since the bar and chain are tiny by normal chainsaw standards.

End of edit from New information provided

The pin moves the bar. The movement of the bar tightens the chain. The position of the pin, diassembled, is mostly irrelevant, though it might indicate a nearly worn-out chain. The odds that you've worn out a bar (yet you are asking this question) are minscule.

When assembling the bar and chain onto the saw body, the pin is normally as far back as it needs to be to allow easy assembly. At that point, one tightens the chain, by moving the adjuster, either via a screwdriver or using one of the complex "easy" mechanisms that have crawled all over homeowner saws in recent years. For the screw adjustment you typically have the blade nuts snug but not tight, and adjust so the chain moves easily but does not come all the way out of the slot when you pull on the chain at the bottom of the bar. Regardless of the mechanism type, the adjustment procedure is detailed in your owner's manual, which is almost certainly available on the web if you don't have a copy you can find at home. Follow it. Mine requires me to hold the tip of the bar up while tightening the nuts after adjustment, for instance.

As noted in my comment, one way to kill a chain is that as you use the saw, the chain heats up, gets longer, and becomes slack. You need to tighten it to continue to work safely. But when you stop working for a while, you need to slack it off, or it will shrink as it cools, and having been tightened while hot it will stretch as it cools - this also stresses the sprocket/shaft more than is desirable.

A used-up or worn out BAR is assessed by the depth and condition of the slot the blade teeth ride in - that assessment has nothing to do with the chain adjustment pin. Few people who are not using a saw professionally wear out a bar.

Chains are a consumable item. You should have at least one spare, and perhaps several if you don't do your own sharpening - or even if you do. In the event of chain damage, it's usually less disruptive to swap to a sharp chain and keep working, rather than having to fix the teeth that ate a rock (for example) while in the woods. When a chain is worn to the point that it's either past more sharpening, or can't be tightened due to wear and/or stretching, retire it.

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  • Fully agree with the exception that if you don’t use at least 1/2 tank of bar oil to a tank of fuel you will wear the bar out, I have a friend that was excited his chainsaw was a monster and a tank of bar oil lasted all day. 3 cords later and a few chains he needed a new bar.
    – Ed Beal
    May 26, 2021 at 23:39
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    Most saws: if you fill the fuel, you are supposed to fill the bar&chain oil as well. That sounds like a clog or wild misadjustment. The manual will generally advise, but if some is not coming off the end of the bar when running, it's not enough...
    – Ecnerwal
    May 26, 2021 at 23:45
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The adjustment is very close to "max", so if that's the setting you need for the chain to be taut, the chain has stretched to its condemning limits. (unless the bar is wrecked somehow).

You can't fix a stretched chain. The holes the rivets go through are getting oblong from long use and/or getting hot.

So get another chain.

You might also review chain technique. Don't ever run out of bar oil. Make sure the chain isn't getting hot (discoloring of the bar). If it starts to smoke, stop immediately and fix it. Know how it cuts with a new chain, if it doesn't cut like that, stop and fix it.

By "fix it" I refer to "knowing how to sharpen". Cultivate your skill so you can sharpen anytime anywhere. Learn to do it freehand with a file, don't waste your time with gadgets.

I often head out into the woods without extra gas or bar oil. But never without a chain file!

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  • This is a totally new saw, less than 30 minuets of use. May 27, 2021 at 17:13

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