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I am looking to install a new microwave in my kitchen since my old one just died. My new microwave is a Whirlpool over the range microwave model #WMH53521HZ. My old microwave had a bizarre mount where there was a very long bolt that when through the entire microwave and the mount actually went through the microwave itself. This new microwave is only supported by a thin metal bracket that just holds the weight on the bottom and then you are supposed to tilt the microwave back and drill through a cabinet above the microwave to secure the mounting bolts.

Only issue is that I do not have a cabinet above my microwave and the old mount is not compatible with this new microwave. I am looking to create something to mount onto my drywall and then come out 14 inches to the mounting bolt hole which is located on the top of the microwave.

Luckily I have two studs within the 29 inches where my microwave is going to be installed. One stud lines up with the right mounting bolt hole on the top of the microwave and one mounting bolt hole does not. I was wondering if I could install these two L brackets above my microwave and then just slide the adjustable part to where the mounting bolt hole is on top of the microwave. I was planning on using a 75lb rated wall anchor for the hole that doesn't line up with a stud. I did not want to have these below the microwave because the girlfriend does not like the look of it.

I then planned to cover the 8 inch gap above the microwave to the ceiling with something decorative.

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    You haven't actually asked a question, by the way. You might revise to be more specific.
    – isherwood
    May 25 at 21:04
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    I would not rely on Sheetrock in this case, I would mount a piece of plywood over the Sheetrock or in place of the Sheetrock. Possibly build a bracket that attaches to the ceiling to mount to. I would be concerned that high humidity in a kitchen could cause the 1 side to fail even with the other side anchored. Plywood could eliminate that issue.
    – Ed Beal
    May 25 at 21:08
  • The GE microwave I mounted several years ago uses a specific bracket that attaches to wall studs. It is basically flat against the wall, no 'shelf' coming out. Check the mounting options for your model.
    – Jon Custer
    May 26 at 16:19
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You're essentially creating an inverted shelf over your microwave. Just adhere to all the principles of mounting a shelf:

  • Adequately strong brackets
  • Anchors of appropriate size and depth
  • Shelf material that's up to the task

I would not use brackets of that type. They don't seem robust enough to me. Heavy gauge steel with a diagonal brace would be your best bet. Two "max brackets" mounted upside down with a 2x6 or 2x8 screwed well to them would do nicely.

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  • These above and the OP's brackets below would create a nice slot to hold the nuker in place.
    – FreeMan
    May 26 at 12:36
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Tricky situation. I think you're right that the microwave's weight is supposed to be supported mostly by the wall bracket at the bottom edge. A fair chunk of weight is supported by the upper screws at the front edge though -- especially when the door is open, and particularly so when the door is pulled open-and-down by a short adult or a child (even if neither you nor any of your household or guests are short, this installation may remain after you leave the house). An L-bracket is weakest at its tip, just where you need strength the most.

One way to support the top front edge of the microwave is to attach a board spanning between the cabinets on either side (a 2x4 laid flat, for example). Just drill a screw from the interior of those cabinets into each end of the board. Then put the microwave's screws down through this board into the microwave.

If you choose and position this board just right it'll also serve to support the lower edge of the decorative cover for the gap. Attach another board up near the ceiling to provide additional backing for the decorative cover if needed.

If you find that the lower board bows downward too much it can be stiffened significantly with the addition of a plywood panel between it and the ceiling. Cut windows in the plywood panel as needed for access to the microwave's screws and electrical cord.

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  • Your first paragraph is spot on. I was just about to write up an alternative plan for spanning between cabinets. Just be sure to use a board that's strong enough--there's no cabinet face or back panel to lend support. I'd go with a flat 2x8 if it's to be covered, or a 1" solid wood stair tread if you need something that looks nice.
    – isherwood
    May 25 at 21:07
  • A 2x4 on edge will be too tall for the mounting bolts (unless severely countersunk). You'd need to add a cleat to the back side no more than about 1-1/2" thick.
    – isherwood
    May 25 at 21:09
  • I'd go with a 2x? laid flat wide enough to span from the wall to the silver metal upright, attached to the cabinets on each side. I'd then add a 2x4 on edge directly above the 2x? and attach that to the studs in the wall, additionally, I'd screw up through the 2x? into the 2x4 to attach them together. The vertical 2x4 will act as a strong-back to give rigidity to the horizontal 2x, preventing it from sagging down, and the screws into the studs will take the weight off the sides of the cabinets.
    – FreeMan
    May 26 at 12:35

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